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unclecrash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
99
Here is a new Video of my First scratch built boat. Been building planes for about 25 years.

Boat is 24in. 2lb.9oz

18.cvr stock

30% heli fuel

fullers gear

x442

 
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looks like 24 inches is perfect for the .18. Awesome!
Thanks John that means alot coming from the designer of this boat. Question Im running 30% Heli fuel if I move up to 50%or 65% boat fuel will I need to shim the head
I have not run the 18 size engine you have, so I can't say for sure. My experience with the 20 size engines tells me it will like higher nitro. Remember though, If you run more nitro you need to richen the needle valve. If the glow plug gets mangled but the coil is dull you are too lean. If the glow plug coil is mangled and shinny.......raise the head a bit. If you have a lathe a bigger bowl cut on the head button would be better than raising the head button. An old trick I used to open up the head volume a bit was to cut off the sharp edge where the dome meets the squish band on the head button. Just rounding off that edge with an exacto knife was enough to open up the head volume without needing a lathe, and I didn't need to raise the head clearance. It might have had something to do with letting the fuel/air mixture get into the squishband area quicker rather than reducing volume. It worked though.
 
Have you checked the head clearance? It is usually high. You can go down to .006".
Not much of a machinist. But what tools and how do I do it,that is check the clearance. Also are you saying I can run 65% at .006 clearance?
Preston? You are the wizard on the smaller motors. Are you getting by ok with .006 and 65 % nitro? If so, the head button needs no mods. If the clearance is high like Preston suggests, just put in the high nitro and see what happens. again....you have to richen the mixture.
 
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Hi All,

Unclecrash I have a CVR-12 I was running in my little rigger that was running on 60% with no problem. I am pretty sure I was running it without a head shim and my clearance is about .008 or .009 . I am not a engine guru for sure so i would guess that if i wanted to goto .006 i would have to have the lip of the sleeve cut down or the seating surface of the button? Also I know it was done with the OS TZ engine they where putting shims under the lip of the sleeve and cutting something down to raise the timing. I know the guys here know alot more about this than i do, this is just scenarios i have read.

Paul

Uncle, Your boat looks Sweet !!!
 
Have you checked the head clearance? It is usually high. You can go down to .006".
Not much of a machinist. But what tools and how do I do it,that is check the clearance. Also are you saying I can run 65% at .006 clearance?
Preston? You are the wizard on the smaller motors. Are you getting by ok with .006 and 65 % nitro? If so, the head button needs no mods. If the clearance is high like Preston suggests, just put in the high nitro and see what happens. again....you have to richen the mixture.
Thanks John I will give it a try in the spring. Hope Preston chimes in would like to know how to check the clearance and what I will need to do it.
 
Thanks Paul I still need to put some finish on her. In the spring I have a few things to fiddle with. Im going to cut the turn fin down some more sharpen up the rudder. Probably going to raise the strut up on the transom a bit because the rudder is a bit deep. Then maybe some graphics on the top the hull.
 
pick up a dial caliper. Remove the head button from the engine. Measure in thousandths the distance the head would protube into the engine if it were in place. Then, measure the depth from the top of the piston to the top of the sleeve with the piston as high in the cylinder as it will go. The difference in the two is the head clearance if there are no shims. Add the shim width in there and it increases the clearance by the width of the shim.
 
pick up a dial caliper. Remove the head button from the engine. Measure in thousandths the distance the head would protube into the engine if it were in place. Then, measure the depth from the top of the piston to the top of the sleeve with the piston as high in the cylinder as it will go. The difference in the two is the head clearance if there are no shims. Add the shim width in there and it increases the clearance by the width of the shim.
Thanks john I think I may have a dial caliper floating around in the basement somewhere. I will add this to my list of to do"s for the spring
 
pick up a dial caliper. Remove the head button from the engine. Measure in thousandths the distance the head would protube into the engine if it were in place. Then, measure the depth from the top of the piston to the top of the sleeve with the piston as high in the cylinder as it will go. The difference in the two is the head clearance if there are no shims. Add the shim width in there and it increases the clearance by the width of the shim.
Thanks john I think I may have a dial caliper floating around in the basement somewhere. I will add this to my list of to do"s for the spring
Harbor Freight puts their digital calipers on sale quite frequently. I can't remember what I spent on mine (probably 20 bucks or less)....but after getting one, I don't know what I ever did without it...

Sean
 
pick up a dial caliper. Remove the head button from the engine. Measure in thousandths the distance the head would protube into the engine if it were in place. Then, measure the depth from the top of the piston to the top of the sleeve with the piston as high in the cylinder as it will go. The difference in the two is the head clearance if there are no shims. Add the shim width in there and it increases the clearance by the width of the shim.
Thanks john I think I may have a dial caliper floating around in the basement somewhere. I will add this to my list of to do"s for the spring
Harbor Freight puts their digital calipers on sale quite frequently. I can't remember what I spent on mine (probably 20 bucks or less)....but after getting one, I don't know what I ever did without it...

Sean
Ill keep that in mind if I can't find mine. I think there's one right down the road.
 
Boat is running SWEET! It sounded like the shaft was barkin' for some more lube about half way in though...
 
Harbor Freight puts their digital calipers on sale quite frequently. I can't remember what I spent on mine (probably 20 bucks or less)....but after getting one, I don't know what I ever did without it...

Sean
Ill keep that in mind if I can't find mine. I think there's one right down the road.
Another nice things (that I should have mentioned earlier) about the digital caliper, is that you can change between inches and metric (milimeters). So you only need one caliper for SAE and metric measurements...don't know what I ever did without it... :)

Sean
 
Some times that sound could be from your shaft bushing getting loose. On my small hardware I've had to replace them about 2x a year. Often it would start to sound like a little turbo,...

Water is hard here..

Boat is running SWEET! It sounded like the shaft was barkin' for some more lube about half way in though...
I just lubed it before I hit the lake
 
Some times that sound could be from your shaft bushing getting loose. On my small hardware I've had to replace them about 2x a year. Often it would start to sound like a little turbo,...
Water is hard here..

Boat is running SWEET! It sounded like the shaft was barkin' for some more lube about half way in though...
I just lubed it before I hit the lake
Anthony are you talking about the strut bushing? I don't know if it needs to be replaced yet.The boat has only been run maybe a dozen times. I will check it though. If it is sloppy whats the easiest way to get it out without destroying the strut?
 

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