Here is a checklist format .print it and check it off if you like.
I am a rank newbie and have learned this from the guys here that have either built or raced for years.
Thanks guys
In no particular order
1-sharpen the rudder and polish it
2-sharpen the strut and polish it.
3-block the bottom.
4-cut the vent holes open.
5-remove the styofoam in the turbine exhaust but leave enough in the canopy to float it.
6-cut the rear of the canopy so the air can escape
7-Make header cooling coil as described on the other forum.
8-clearance the front top of the rudder blade so it can be tucked in under the boat a couple degrees.
9-I added flotation behind the radio box which keeps me drier when I stall.Drier=less water in the carb.
10-many have added a snorkel to the carb I have not.
11-coat the bottom on the enside of the boat with epoxy as Russ suggest in the other thread.BIG HELP
12 make sure when you tighten the fex shaft couplers the nut does not "
bottom"out and there are threads showing between the 15mm and the 12mm compresion fitting or you may loose your shaft and all that is on it.We have found that the shafts will go all the way through the coupler and hit the end of the crank
This is fine ,but when you tighten the coupler you MUST HAVE THREADS SHOWING..
13 metal y535 prop sharpened and balanced.
Over all great little boat for the $$ we will have three running on our pond in a week from today and the word is there will be 5 next spring
I have seen no diference in performance when we experimented with our vegas with or without the spoiler.
We run the same against each other with one With and one wihout and then we try it the other guy with and me without and they are too close to tell with the naked eye.But a radar gut would tell.
They look better with I think
I am interested to see what sloting the strut more so it can be raised farther will do.
How close can the c/l of the strut actually be to the bottom of the boat.and what does this do increase rpm/speed.
Does it cavitate much it must??
Terry
