Cleaning Nitrp Motors Prior to Reassembly

What do you guys use to clean nitro motors prior to reassembly? Just carb cleaner and blow everything off really well? Or is an unltrasonic cleaner the way to go?

Josh-

I use a ultrasonic with kerosene then re-assemble using after run oil. (ATF) It has served me well for many years. B) Greg

When doing bearing changes and what not, I clean my cases with brake cleaner and then stick them in the Dishwasher and run them through a high heat/pot scrubbing wash with a high temp dry..

I wouldn't use any aerosol type spray by itself on engine parts. There is humidity within those cans. The ultrasonic cleaner with kerosene sounds like a good solution. I usually use kerosene or (white gas) to clean my engines and then oil with Corrosion-X or a good ATF oil.

GRoth265 said:

I use a ultrasonic with kerosene then re-assemble using after run oil. (ATF) It has served me well for many years. B) Greg

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I made a solution of WD40, PPG paint degreaser and castrol kart oil for years and never had any maintenence problem.I agree that aerosol have humidity that's why I prefer WD 40 in galoon. My ultrasonic cleaner is a dental one(3 liters capacity) with all kind of solutions. ...well the dish washer option could be a soution if my wife was travelling abroad..hehe!

Gill

Many moons ago Stan Simpson was doing my motors.. He had me use a concoction of 50% WD40, 25% Marvel Mystery Oil and 25% Mineral Spirits mixed up.... I'd blow this through my engines after each day of racing.

gil sonsino said:

I made a solution of WD40, PPG paint degreaser and castrol kart oil for years and never had any maintenence problem.I agree that aerosol have humidity that's why I prefer WD 40 in galoon. My ultrasonic cleaner is a dental one(3 liters capacity) with all kind of solutions. ...well the dish washer option could be a soution if my wife was travelling abroad..hehe!

Gill

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Hi Guys,

I use a carb parts dip tank available at auto parts stores. Comes as a gallon paint can with a dipping basket inside. about $15.. sometimes reffered to as a hydroseal tank 'cause it has a layer of water on top of the slovent to keep it from evaporating, rinse the nasty chemical off the parts when you lift it out, and to help keep the smell out of your shop.

As long as you wipe or scrape the majority of the "Goo" from the parts, this stuff lasts for a long time.

Soak parts for a day or two then scrub them with a toothbrush (not a wire brush), dishsoap, and hot water. Aluminum castings come out looking like new............

Some say that it will etch or otherwise be bad for aluminum. Not true! this stuff is designed for aluminum carburetor parts. most plastics that will withstand nitro will be alright . I've never tried anything that was color anodized......... Best not to soak rubber parts( 0-rings and seals) and paper gaskets.

The only drawback is that this stuff has a strong smell. If you don't want the wife to complain do it outside and wear rubber gloves. Your hands will have the odor of the chemical if you do it bare handed.

Good luck,

Bob the Fool :blink:

Jay made a comment about white gas and kerosene, they are very different. White gas is (like coleman fuel) extremely flammable (especially the vapor) kerosene doesn't have nearly the flash point. Just a safety tip. B) Greg

I don't like kerosene because it affects rubber so it can damage o -rings.Like Jay said WD plus any good quality spirit do the job.

Gill

Personally I feal ultrasonic is the best. If no ultrasonic cleaner is available then the picking list would be good old soap (dish detergent) and water followed with light oil. Third would be atf as it has the highest concentration of detergents with oil. Using atf alone I would follow up with perhaps lacquer thinner since the atf will break loose dirt from the parts and you don't want those floating around in the engine due to the atf still attatched to the parts.

I have learned from first hand experience in the auto racing industry. I own and manage a race car engineering, service and prep shop and the only way we will use used oil hoses and coolers after we lose an engine is to use an ultrasonic cleaner, otherwise we will just install new ones and not take the risk.

If you want to try an experiment with say atf, thinners, brake cleaner etc. then go purchase a small piece of steel from your local hardware store, take a clean white cloth and then try each fluid on separate parts of it and see how much comes off on your cloth. I bet atf wins, but remember there is still film stuck on the metal due to the oil in the atf.