- Joined
- Jan 2, 2005
- Messages
- 1,048
Stan, Al Hobbs had some of the rotors. (406) 468-2706. Jeffstanosmax said:Boy,,,that sure would save me alot of machining,that is what I wanted to do to the stock K-90 induction for awhile now. Where can I buy that,Jeff?
Stan
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Mark, As you might remember, the first time you saw one of these rotors, I showed you and Doc mine at the Slidell Nov. race. I told you then it would not work in an aluminum housing, you thought you could add some oil pockets to float the rotor valve and everything be all right, I hate to see that didn't work for you.I remember in March talking to you and Doc about the rotor I ran some straightaway passes with in Valdosta. At that time of the race Doc said he had not even looked at his rotor yet, so I wasn't aware Doc went through 2 of them. For heat racing I will run the regular rotor valve also, it makes plenty of power. On the double induction rotor valve, both windows open and close at the SAME TIME.When it opens they both charge the piston just like a standard rotor valve.When the piston goes on its down stroke building crankcase pressure and the ports open they are charged the same way no matter what rotor you have in the motor.I hope your house on Fort Morgan is all right, we did Ok in the storm but have family that got alot of damage.I talked to Virgil Erickson today he is in Texas and is ok, someone checked his house and business and they are still standing. Jeff LutzMark Bullard said:The thing that works on these rotors is not the intake from the carb to the crankcase. But the crankcase to the ports on the crankcase compression. When the rotor close for the crankcase compression the other side of the rotor opens up for the fuel to move up the back intake port. This improves the flow greatly. Doc Turner ran two of these last March in Slidell La. They ran very well but failed before the end of the race. The housings failed by beating the thrust area of the housing. So what was happening the rotor was moving away from the crank untill the pin would not drive it. I made some thrust washers out of brass but it drove the housing out further and did not hurt the rings and the end results was the same thing. Doc was running Odonnell fuel and it has a very low oil content and it may not have a very good pressure lube to it. We when back to our old rotors with no problems and if any one has seen our motors run they know that our RPM's is pretty high with stock parts.
Mark Bullard
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Jeff Lutz said:Mark, As you might remember, the first time you saw one of these rotors, I showed you and Doc mine at the Slidell Nov. race. I told you then it would not work in an aluminum housing, you thought you could add some oil pockets to float the rotor valve and everything be all right, I hate to see that didn't work for you.I remember in March talking to you and Doc about the rotor I ran some straightaway passes with in Valdosta. At that time of the race Doc said he had not even looked at his rotor yet, so I wasn't aware Doc went through 2 of them. For heat racing I will run the regular rotor valve also, it makes plenty of power. On the double induction rotor valve, both windows open and close at the SAME TIME.When it opens they both charge the piston just like a standard rotor valve.When the piston goes on its down stroke building crankcase pressure and the ports open they are charged the same way no matter what rotor you have in the motor.I hope your house on Fort Morgan is all right, we did Ok in the storm but have family that got alot of damage.I talked to Virgil Erickson today he is in Texas and is ok, someone checked his house and business and they are still standing. Jeff LutzMark Bullard said:The thing that works on these rotors is not the intake from the carb to the crankcase. But the crankcase to the ports on the crankcase compression. When the rotor close for the crankcase compression the other side of the rotor opens up for the fuel to move up the back intake port. This improves the flow greatly. Doc Turner ran two of these last March in Slidell La. They ran very well but failed before the end of the race. The housings failed by beating the thrust area of the housing. So what was happening the rotor was moving away from the crank untill the pin would not drive it. I made some thrust washers out of brass but it drove the housing out further and did not hurt the rings and the end results was the same thing. Doc was running Odonnell fuel and it has a very low oil content and it may not have a very good pressure lube to it. We when back to our old rotors with no problems and if any one has seen our motors run they know that our RPM's is pretty high with stock parts.
Mark Bullard
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Jeff Lutz said:Mark, As you might remember, the first time you saw one of these rotors, I showed you and Doc mine at the Slidell Nov. race. I told you then it would not work in an aluminum housing, you thought you could add some oil pockets to float the rotor valve and everything be all right, I hate to see that didn't work for you.I remember in March talking to you and Doc about the rotor I ran some straightaway passes with in Valdosta. At that time of the race Doc said he had not even looked at his rotor yet, so I wasn't aware Doc went through 2 of them. For heat racing I will run the regular rotor valve also, it makes plenty of power. On the double induction rotor valve, both windows open and close at the SAME TIME.When it opens they both charge the piston just like a standard rotor valve.When the piston goes on its down stroke building crankcase pressure and the ports open they are charged the same way no matter what rotor you have in the motor.I hope your house on Fort Morgan is all right, we did Ok in the storm but have family that got alot of damage.I talked to Virgil Erickson today he is in Texas and is ok, someone checked his house and business and they are still standing. Jeff LutzMark Bullard said:The thing that works on these rotors is not the intake from the carb to the crankcase. But the crankcase to the ports on the crankcase compression. When the rotor close for the crankcase compression the other side of the rotor opens up for the fuel to move up the back intake port. This improves the flow greatly. Doc Turner ran two of these last March in Slidell La. They ran very well but failed before the end of the race. The housings failed by beating the thrust area of the housing. So what was happening the rotor was moving away from the crank untill the pin would not drive it. I made some thrust washers out of brass but it drove the housing out further and did not hurt the rings and the end results was the same thing. Doc was running Odonnell fuel and it has a very low oil content and it may not have a very good pressure lube to it. We when back to our old rotors with no problems and if any one has seen our motors run they know that our RPM's is pretty high with stock parts.
Mark Bullard
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Luing, Since you have one of these rotors, you know they are hard to explain on the internet.Even though the rotor opens( itself) back up on its downstroke, it does not change the flow much (BECAUSE OF THAT) because fuel is not supposed to be in the rotor at that point, its under the piston. You seem to think the rotor is full of fuel and comes blasting out into the ports,when it does not. If any fuel was in there it could come through it, but hopefully its not.I am glad to hear that you have a good running boat with this engine.Happy boating,Jeff1fastracer said:Jeff, you could learn a thing or two from Mark. I live in Singapore and have been running the rotor you are talking about here for a long time. You should take another good look at it and try to see what Mark is saying because he is correct, and you are not.
Regards, Luing Lee
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