Bruce Clark

This is one of the reason I didn't race this year. Been doing a lot of testing with 3 boats and they all have different bottoms. I haven't run the latest but its more like the VS1. I think it will be fast but I want to go through the corner at a faster speed like I have seen some JAE riggers. I wasn't racing in 2011 but the post above supplied a lot of information about this post. Rodney Pierce had the post with the picture in it. Great reading material. Thanks Chris Dixon. I do have another ideal to build and test that I have never seen on any tunnel boats. If it works I will share what I learn from it.

I have looked at the HTB 3.5 the Vision 3.5 Links 3.5 and the VS 1 but I have not studied all of the angles. Seems like the tunnel has a vacuum so I can understand letting more air out the back to increase speed. Is this where the width of the inside tunnel makes a difference. Less air less vacuum or wider tunnel to let more air out. To me the deeper sponson would be better for rough water. Personally I like for my tunnels to run flatter on the water but get more speed when I run nose high and let off throttle to make it turn. Has anyone drew one up with the wind tunnel to see any changes that would improve the boat. Guess I'll be playing more with the bottom.

Seems like there are lot of good tunnels on the market. What I would like to talk about is the bottom. What makes one turn better or what it takes to keep one on the water at higher speeds. I know there are a lot of different thoughts about width, height, or design of the sponson. I would really like to hear from the designer of the people that make boats. I am hoping that information shared will help people go faster and be more competitive. I really like the IW website, good job guys.

He is saying "Go ahead and make my day"

A lot of people around KY, TN, IN, OH, IL, run "Bam" racing fuel. Works great for me.

Hey Sam, does it matter if you leave the plug in when you read the meter? I have always done it with the plug in.

Was it Jarod Devae, He run a twin with ops 60 's in it. On'y twin I have ever seen run on 1 motor and finish a race. He has won Indy masters a few times.

Binding is easy after you do it an understand how you did it. If I remember correctly you hold button on receiver and turn it on. Be sure the transmitter is in the binding mold 1st. You should bind in a few seconds. Hope this helps because the directions don't tell you about the receiver button being held down when turning it on.

I will say I have the same radio. Never had a problem and now I have 3 receivers in 3 different boats. I find myself wanting another receiver so I don't have to swap receivers from boat to boat. My Futaba now is my back up radio. I wish the directions to bind the receiver was better in the manual. It's not hard to do but the directions are not very good. The rest of the radio is very easy to use. I also like the throttle setting at 70/30 % so you can set the idle when starting. 1 to 10 I give mine a 9. I love the GPS get the proton receiver

correct spelling on Engine spec. G. should say (Rudder) not rubber...... Now it time to go racing.

Sam if you would have asked the same question about BAM Racing fuel you would have gotten the same response from people that run Alan's fuel. Good Fuel, I been running it for the last 4 years with no problem.

contact Alan Elzer on here. "BAM Racing"

LMAO :D :D :D :D :D

To Mikey and Buddy, you guys going to run stock class or mod with pipe? I'll be waiting for you. LOL

Mark I would vote on 15 16 oct. Do you guys have the clock issue worked out for future races. I didn't like the resetting of the clock once it started.