3d printet tunnel with 3d printet outboard

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Henrikjensen

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2022
Messages
17
Making my first tunnel boat , just for fun no race class thing .
Printed it all in pla+ but the lower leg will be made in petg if its an succes , just glued the hull today and tommorrow i will skin it with fiberglass.
Hull lenght about 83 cm
Outboard about 30.5 cm tall
Outboard will get 7 bearings , 3 thrust bearings , shock coupler , modul 1 steel gears , motor wise im not sure , texted with dutch guy on youtube that suggested me this forum , i have an 4082 1900kv on the way , i have a new turnigy 3660 1700kv laying arround , but he suggested 3674 1600kv , a lot if selfbuild and not quite sure about durability and how hull will handle , so i will start with 4s lipo but i hope it will handle 6s , i have plenty lipos to start with and i recieved a watercooled 150a 6s esc , and also 1.4 and 1.6 pitch 43 44 45 and 47 mm props .
 

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Very nice, but I have several observations from experience with 3D printed sponsons on a P rigger. The heavy stresses on your boat are across the layer lines where the part is the weakest. The layers need to run from front to back. You went with very thin walled sections. A minimal infill like 5% gyroid under 4 or more layer walls will be a lot stronger and still light. It still wasn't strong enough on my sponson and the pictured failure in the last heat dropped me way down in the standings. The best use for 3D printing in model boats is as a mold for epoxy glass hulls. See my article at namba.com/content/library/propwash/2021/October/16/

I also built a 3D printed lower unit. I haven't seen success with gear drives so I built a flex cable drive lower. I printed a PLA outer shell and a bronze/steel 3D printed inner from Shapeways for the threaded prop drive and fin. It has held up well. If I made a new version, I would reduce the amount of bronze/steel to the fin and prop drive area with a tab into the screws holding the PLA parts together.

Lohring MillerP1010039.JPGP1010040.JPGP1010040.JPG
 
Nice project and I like your trial of a geared outboard. I'm the Dutch guy from YouTube, but you probably figured that 😉.
Generally, geared outboards cannot handle as much power and high rpm's. That's why I recommend to select a lower kV motor.

I have no 3D printing experience, but Lohring Miller's advice sounds interesting and makes sense. Laminating would definitely add strength to the hull.
 
Very nice, but I have several observations from experience with 3D printed sponsons on a P rigger. The heavy stresses on your boat are across the layer lines where the part is the weakest. The layers need to run from front to back. You went with very thin walled sections. A minimal infill like 5% gyroid under 4 or more layer walls will be a lot stronger and still light. It still wasn't strong enough on my sponson and the pictured failure in the last heat dropped me way down in the standings. The best use for 3D printing in model boats is as a mold for epoxy glass hulls. See my article at namba.com/content/library/propwash/2021/October/16/

I also built a 3D printed lower unit. I haven't seen success with gear drives so I built a flex cable drive lower. I printed a PLA outer shell and a bronze/steel 3D printed inner from Shapeways for the threaded prop drive and fin. It has held up well. If I made a new version, I would reduce the amount of bronze/steel to the fin and prop drive area with a tab into the screws holding the PLA parts together.

Lohring MillerView attachment 310590View attachment 310591View attachment 310591
Hi and thank you for your input , i am going to skin it with 2 layers af light 100gr pr square meter fiberglass , and i made 6mm wooden supports inside hull when gluing it together , i also have my doubt about the geared outboard , the first 1 in pics are made in pla+ with 100%infill , i have a 3660 1700kv turnigy boat motor i will do first test with on only 4s , if it works i will reprint the outboard in petg also 100 % infill , that should handle alot of abuse , i also since last ordered a 4074 1700kv watercooled rocket motor .
The project have been stopped , i forgot i borrowed a friend my last fiberglass so i ordered 10 m2 from hobbyking netherlands .
How is your direct drive printed outboard do , any chance if its good you will share the stl file for it ?
Im not boat guy so i toke the gear way becourse i waesnt sure about support and how much i could bent a flexdrive , only had big gassers with flexdrive and in those the flexdrive i almost straight , and 1 more ? The flexdrive is supposed to run same way clockwise as the prop , or oposite way ?
 
Nice project and I like your trial of a geared outboard. I'm the Dutch guy from YouTube, but you probably figured that 😉.
Generally, geared outboards cannot handle as much power and high rpm's. That's why I recommend to select a lower kV motor.

I have no 3D printing experience, but Lohring Miller's advice sounds interesting and makes sense. Laminating would definitely add strength to the hull.
Hi , yes it sounds like he knows alot more than i do , but i did out in 6mm wooden supports in the full lenght , and tommorrow 10m2 100gr fiberglass will arrive from hobbyking netherlands , i will skin it like you did with 2 layers maybe 3 ?
I did take your advise and ordered a 4074 1700kv watercooled rocket motor , lets see what works .
I have to order more motors soon anyway for the jetboat , i did buy a 40mm jetdrive with upgradet alu impeller , but i think it will be to small , so thursday i will go pick up a secondhand brand new graupner jetdrive 5 with 49mm impeller , that should work better for this , just have to do mold and a fiberglas version of it .
 

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I would be glad to share the Fusion 360 as well as the stl file. Give me some time to add my latest improvements.

Lohring Miller
 
I would be glad to share the Fusion 360 as well as the stl file. Give me some time to add my latest improvements.

Lohring Miller
Wow super , thank you alot ,i will look forward to that , i use both fusion360 and designspark but originaly educated in solidworks , shame its only boat forum , im working on several projects , friday evening i designed 1/3 scale rear axle for gardentractor with fg monstertruck tires , and also 85 cm long tracked garden robot with 3 link carrier in front like tractor have in rear , several kg of petg just for the tracks for it .
What material do you use for making parts that will be used ?
I prefer petg , but never worked alot with abs , but i just bought a couple of kg to try it again , not much succes first time i tryid it more than 5 years ago .
 
Everything black in the picture was printed in PLA. I tried nylon in an earlier version, but it's a lot harder to print. PLA is quite strong, but brittle. These days LA is my go to material except for flexible parts. Send me your email in a PM and I'll send off the Fusion files.

Lohring Miller
 
Gave it 2 layers of 100 gram fiberglass on top , tommorrow bottom will get 2 or 3 layers depending on how strong the top feels , my first attempt doing this
 

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That motor and esc look familiar. I will use the same esc and Rocket 4074 motor in my mono build.
Looking forward to the progress 👍
Its been freezing and snowing in denmark so not really good weather for painting im afraid , or fiberglass work on jetboat, but i recieved monster combo for the jetboat build , hobbywing max 5 , 200a 8s esc and 56113 800kv motor making 9.28 hk , should be plenty ?
 

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Nice setup, that is some serious power. This is intended to be a car setup. I advice you to put water cooling on the esc and motor. I know there are some water cooling conversion kits for Castle car esc's. You might take a look if something similar exists for this esc.
 
Nice setup, that is some serious power. This is intended to be a car setup. I advice you to put water cooling on the esc and motor. I know there are some water cooling conversion kits for Castle car esc's. You might take a look if something similar exists for this esc.
I already ordered watercooling jacket for 56 mm motor , hull will be kept more or less open so maybe air cooling of esc will be enough ,i will just pit in 2 seats and top of 3d printed v8 blower motor , the v8 motor i hope can be made to cover the brushless motor and drive , i just ordered those turnigy rapid 5500 mah 140c lipos on hobbyking black friday , i think 7s will give good to maybe little to fast impeller rpm , tests will show later
 
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