- Joined
- Mar 15, 2022
- Messages
- 349
Any recommendations for a strait blade speedmaster rudder blade. Also any thoughts about a longer bracket?
Straighten out the front end, remove 1967 and replace with 1667.Come on Buckshot, let's hear it
I do the same. Not to control the strait line running trim. But to control flight trim, when the front catches air. measured from the top I run .2 more neg on left side on my d's and e's .3 on my f boatsNot that it is the best way but I have had to use a lot of toe in on the right sponson to stop the pull to the right . Now I do realize that shimming up the front of the right sponson will increase angle of attack and also reduce drag from wetted surface and that will be an area of tuning that I need to do more work on . Rudder depth is also a large factor as mentioned .
Running a futaba 9156Put the left sponson straight and push the fin out till it stops pulling. That is assuming the bottom angle of attacks are the same or slightly more on the right side (preferred), and the turn fin angle is parallel to the water line and it is sharpened on the outside only. I run my rudder close to the transom and prefer non tapered blades. What steering servo are you running? There are as many setup theories as there are boaters.
Boat pulls a 1475 all day 1667 rpm to high. Not good at bending props 1967 is good. Fixed it with 1 in strait bladei dont see how anybody can give proper instructions without knowing type of boat .
guess we go with experience.
1) proper boat wont walk and doesnt need "toes"
2) 1967,2167,967,cut down 1470 all will go stright --read 1
3)dull thick blades will walk every time
4) low power engine will walk all day. go down to 1667 stock =beginner engine dudes
5) but most important -get rid of the tapered blade,it doesnt make anything fast go straight. i wouldnt run 1 on a .40 boat,it would prob spin out 1/2 way down the straight
[had a nightmare with monos back in the day,,people kept saying "put a smaller prop on" i was like u put a smaller prop on ur toy engine ,this engine pulls this . anyhoo ,my monos (all sizes) would random spin out with power spike just under half straight,,OR if i babied it spin out in the corners. got rid of tapered rudder,which people said a mono needed,then all was good]
just my experience- others may differ
You are the man, peace out.i dont see how anybody can give proper instructions without knowing type of boat .
guess we go with experience.
1) proper boat wont walk and doesnt need "toes"
2) 1967,2167,967,cut down 1470 all will go stright --read 1
3)dull thick blades will walk every time
4) low power engine will walk all day. go down to 1667 stock =beginner engine dudes
5) but most important -get rid of the tapered blade,it doesnt make anything fast go straight. i wouldnt run 1 on a .40 boat,it would prob spin out 1/2 way down the straight
[had a nightmare with monos back in the day,,people kept saying "put a smaller prop on" i was like u put a smaller prop on ur toy engine ,this engine pulls this . anyhoo ,my monos (all sizes) would random spin out with power spike just under half straight,,OR if i babied it spin out in the corners. got rid of tapered rudder,which people said a mono needed,then all was good]
just my experience- others may differ
On a outrigger or hydro of any kind, there is nothing good about a taper on a rudder blade, when it comes to the vertical leading edges and trailing edges. Jeff LutzIve noticed the spin outs with tapered rudders as well, in your opinion (anyone), is there a case where a tapered rudder is a good thing?
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