Prop walking F hydro

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Could you post a picture or two of what you have now? It would be helpful if one shows what angle your rudder is at when the controls are centered
 
Pics of the turnfin and transom. Pics from all sides of the boat would be very helpful
 
Ok guys. Thanks. Left spon has 1/6 toe in right spon has 1/8 toe in turn fin is parallel to tub cnt. Line rudder is a 60 size tapered cut 3/4 in below water pick up prop 19 67 it's sharp and as thin as what I think is safe. (Mabe a little thicker in the last 1/3 of trailing edge than some)
 
Put the left sponson straight and push the fin out till it stops pulling. That is assuming the bottom angle of attacks are the same or slightly more on the right side (preferred), and the turn fin angle is parallel to the water line and it is sharpened on the outside only. I run my rudder close to the transom and prefer non tapered blades. What steering servo are you running? There are as many setup theories as there are boaters.
 
Not that it is the best way but I have had to use a lot of toe in on the right sponson to stop the pull to the right . Now I do realize that shimming up the front of the right sponson will increase angle of attack and also reduce drag from wetted surface and that will be an area of tuning that I need to do more work on . Rudder depth is also a large factor as mentioned .
 
Last edited:
Had a chance to run it last week. Think it's ready. Boat always tracked strait with VERY little left trim in rudder. But wanted to walk transom getting back on throttle out of a turn. Fix--- went to a 1 in strait blade rudder, cut to same length as the tapered one that was on it.(can always shorten it up later) and also went to the medium length bracket instead of the shorter standard one. More blade area to work against lateral movement along with the extra leverage of a longer bracket.
 
Not that it is the best way but I have had to use a lot of toe in on the right sponson to stop the pull to the right . Now I do realize that shimming up the front of the right sponson will increase angle of attack and also reduce drag from wetted surface and that will be an area of tuning that I need to do more work on . Rudder depth is also a large factor as mentioned .
I do the same. Not to control the strait line running trim. But to control flight trim, when the front catches air. measured from the top I run .2 more neg on left side on my d's and e's .3 on my f boats
 
i dont see how anybody can give proper instructions without knowing type of boat .
guess we go with experience.
1) proper boat wont walk and doesnt need "toes"
2) 1967,2167,967,cut down 1470 all will go stright --read 1
3)dull thick blades will walk every time
4) low power engine will walk all day. go down to 1667 stock =beginner engine dudes
5) but most important -get rid of the tapered blade,it doesnt make anything fast go straight. i wouldnt run 1 on a .40 boat,it would prob spin out 1/2 way down the straight
[had a nightmare with monos back in the day,,people kept saying "put a smaller prop on" i was like u put a smaller prop on ur toy engine ,this engine pulls this . anyhoo ,my monos (all sizes) would random spin out with power spike just under half straight,,OR if i babied it spin out in the corners. got rid of tapered rudder,which people said a mono needed,then all was good]
just my experience- others may differ
 
Put the left sponson straight and push the fin out till it stops pulling. That is assuming the bottom angle of attacks are the same or slightly more on the right side (preferred), and the turn fin angle is parallel to the water line and it is sharpened on the outside only. I run my rudder close to the transom and prefer non tapered blades. What steering servo are you running? There are as many setup theories as there are boaters.
Running a futaba 9156
 
i dont see how anybody can give proper instructions without knowing type of boat .
guess we go with experience.
1) proper boat wont walk and doesnt need "toes"
2) 1967,2167,967,cut down 1470 all will go stright --read 1
3)dull thick blades will walk every time
4) low power engine will walk all day. go down to 1667 stock =beginner engine dudes
5) but most important -get rid of the tapered blade,it doesnt make anything fast go straight. i wouldnt run 1 on a .40 boat,it would prob spin out 1/2 way down the straight
[had a nightmare with monos back in the day,,people kept saying "put a smaller prop on" i was like u put a smaller prop on ur toy engine ,this engine pulls this . anyhoo ,my monos (all sizes) would random spin out with power spike just under half straight,,OR if i babied it spin out in the corners. got rid of tapered rudder,which people said a mono needed,then all was good]
just my experience- others may differ
Boat pulls a 1475 all day 1667 rpm to high. Not good at bending props 1967 is good. Fixed it with 1 in strait blade
 
i dont see how anybody can give proper instructions without knowing type of boat .
guess we go with experience.
1) proper boat wont walk and doesnt need "toes"
2) 1967,2167,967,cut down 1470 all will go stright --read 1
3)dull thick blades will walk every time
4) low power engine will walk all day. go down to 1667 stock =beginner engine dudes
5) but most important -get rid of the tapered blade,it doesnt make anything fast go straight. i wouldnt run 1 on a .40 boat,it would prob spin out 1/2 way down the straight
[had a nightmare with monos back in the day,,people kept saying "put a smaller prop on" i was like u put a smaller prop on ur toy engine ,this engine pulls this . anyhoo ,my monos (all sizes) would random spin out with power spike just under half straight,,OR if i babied it spin out in the corners. got rid of tapered rudder,which people said a mono needed,then all was good]
just my experience- others may differ
You are the man, peace out. ✌️
 
Back
Top