3D printing a strut

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the german

the german

Well-Known Member
Vendor
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
501
Hi guy's
What are your thoughts about 3D printing a strut out of Nylon X (nylon carbon composite)?
Did anyone already tried ?

Thanks you for input

Alex 3D Strut.JPG
 
I have been playing around with "functional" Fused Filament Fabrication (AKA 3D printing) for awhile now. I have stuck with components, that what I perceive to be, minimally loaded (high stress). With that being said, I haven't graduated to Nylon impregnated materials yet. Although, that is my goal. I have only implemented components in my FE boats and nothing for Nitro. That eliminates my need for raw fuel and exhaust degrading the materials.

About your strut; I am really curious to see how it performs. Even down the straights of a race course the strut is going to see vibrations. I suspect you will have some (generally speaking) vertical loading also, which will be supported by the height of the strut. Again, making assumptions, I would guess that your going to see additional side loading with minimal support while making turns. Good Luck and keep us posted!

By the way, What printer are you using? Do you need an enclosure for printing nylon?

Thanks
Mike
 
Mike, an enclosure is recommend not for the fumes, but to keep the part temperature high for better fusing. I think I am running around 220DegC nozzle temps for the nylon.
I had to 3D print a new cowl for the Q-hydro(you know so I can reclaim my record) and at only 1mm thick it's strong and after sealing with some epoxy it's nice and water tight.
 
I've been using Taulman 910 to print structural parts. Fillers mostly increase stiffness, not strength. Plastics can be as strong as "pot metals" but aren't as stiff. I think outboard lower units are a good possibility for 3D printing.

Lohring Miller
 
RaceMechaniX said:
Mike, an enclosure is recommend not for the fumes, but to keep the part temperature high for better fusing. I think I am running around 220DegC nozzle temps for the nylon.
I had to 3D print a new cowl for the Q-hydro(you know so I can reclaim my record) and at only 1mm thick it's strong and after sealing with some epoxy it's nice and water tight.
Click to expand...

Agreed on the enclosure. That is one reason, I haven't gone down that direction yet. I have the materials to build a dedicated enclosure; I just haven't devoted the time. I have also read that upgrading the nozzle from brass to hardened steel is recommended due to the abrasive nature of the "exotic" materials. Tyler are you printing at home or is this "government work" in the office? I recently purchased a new printer (Prusa MK3s). Very nice unit and is doing a good job out of the box. However, I haven't done much experimenting other than PLA

Lohring, thanks for the suggestion for Taulman 910. I will take a look. Looks like you need an enclosure for this stuff too. How about a hardened nozzle?

Thanks
Mike
 


Mike
I talked to the Prusa guy's lately and they recommend a harden nozzle and an enclosure when you print Nylon X etc.
I agree with Tyler .......it's the best way to keep the part temp. high for better fusing.Right now I'm printing my stuff on a Lulzbot but I'm going to buy a Prusa MK3s for sure.

Alex
 
Alex,

I know somebody on here made a strut out of Delrin a while back and it didn't end well. If I recall, it was the heat at start-up. There's more friction there than we think. Everything's all fine and dandy once it's in the water, but we don't start our boats in the water. Just something to think about.

Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine and Precision LLC
 
I have made a carbon strut with compression molds. Eric Bourlet was running it in his sport40. We did not have a heat issue as a brass liner was set in the mold for the shaft. The problem we had was it did not want to stay in place. Was always moving. It was too slippery. We gave up on it and went back to aluminum. I still have the one I made for me somewhere.
Mike
 
If you make the strut beefy enough, it should work. Remember, plastic is not as stiff as aluminum. In my outboard mount I just made things thicker. In my sponsons I used 4 outer perimeters and 10% gyroid infill. The outer layer is what gives stiffness. Webs are an alternative. I have been considering running the shaft directly in nylon. However, a brass bushing will probably wear better. Below is one version of the outboard lower unit. The fin is too thin to work in plastic.

Lohring Miller
 

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Another thought. Print the strut on end. That way the layer lines will be vertical, giving longitudinal strength and making the shaft hole more accurately round. It will still need sized, though.

Lohring Miller
 
If you have ever had a strut break you know the carnage it causes , especially on a Twin . A few hundred bucks worth .
The best struts in my opinion are the stainless Octura strut followed by the Insane and Rum Racing as the end mill sharpening is done with the end mill parallel to the shaft bore producing a radius top and bottom unlike some that are milled in such a way to leave a stress rising 90 corner where it meets the strut in the front .
 
Tom
I machine my struts normally out of T7075 aluminum ...... never had any issue with breaking or deforming but with the new technology of 3D printing ...... i just had a thought.
 

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