seperate radio box for rudder

[Mike Cathey]

I'm putting together a used Phil Thomas Sort 40.It would definitely make life easier to mount the rudder servo in the back of the boat so i have plenty of room for a 3rd channel set up in the nose. Building a cf box is no problem.

However, I'm wondering about the best way to make a waterproof wiring connection from box to box. Suggestions? I know the last thing I want is a wad of gooped on silicone to make the seal.

I see most of the manufacturers of high torque digital servos (I am using a Futaba 9350 with a 6 volt battery) caution against using extensions. I suppose a key would using larger wire to reduce resistance and heat.

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Mike, have a look in here https://ricksrcstuff.shutterfly.com/pictures/84 there is plenty of room in the FWD radio box in a PT Sport-40 for three servo's

 

[Andy Brown]

With the new Futaba Rx's that are well under .5 oz why not just add the extra Rx. Use a small battery for the engine control and a slightly larger battery at the rudder.

Surely there will be little or no weight gain and there will be no long leads running through the hull.

 

[Robert Pickard]

Boy that boat in Ricks picture looks fimilar oh its mine and yes still have alot of room in radio box

 

[TimothyJones]

Rick

That is exactly the way mine is except I have a standard size servo for the 3rd.

everything is tight but does fit.

 

[TimothyJones]

Mike,

I believe you can take out the connectors on the spade run it through a standard box seal boot and then just put the connectors back in.

 

[Mike Cathey]

With the new Futaba Rx's that are well under .5 oz why not just add the extra Rx. Use a small battery for the engine control and a slightly larger battery at the rudder.

Surely there will be little or no weight gain and there will be no long leads running through the hull.

I saw the two Rx deal for the first time on some twin riggers at the Namba nats. Never occurred to me to do it in a boat. Pretty common on some of the big buck scale airplanes.. I made the jump to 2.4 this year and have lots of receivers. The weight doesn't concern me so much. I bought this boat used and it looks like the paint and clear was put on with a broom, but the price was right. If I like it and it runs good I will take it down and repaint it. God knows I have plenty of different colors from all the scale boats I have had.

I will take another look at trying to get it all in the nose. My main concern is rudder pushrod clearance past the motor mounts.

 

[Robert Pickard]

Mike look at the way Rick did mine in the pic lots of room

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I'm putting together a used Phil Thomas Sort 40.It would definitely make life easier to mount the rudder servo in the back of the boat so i have plenty of room for a 3rd channel set up in the nose. Building a cf box is no problem.

However, I'm wondering about the best way to make a waterproof wiring connection from box to box. Suggestions? I know the last thing I want is a wad of gooped on silicone to make the seal.

I see most of the manufacturers of high torque digital servos (I am using a Futaba 9350 with a 6 volt battery) caution against using extensions. I suppose a key would using larger wire to reduce resistance and heat.

When I had a seperate radio box for the rudder because of space I got a long wire extension from the local Hobby shop and used Silicon to water proof the connection. Didn't have any problem at all. Just make sure everything is water proof. I'll dig for a picture.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

This may or may not help. Its not a PT hull but you get the picture.

Just keep your heavy components up front.

 

[Daniel's Racing]

The best way I have found is to use a 1/2" long piece of about 5/16" brass tubing and glass/epoxy it in the wall of the box. Release the terminals from the male connector which is very easy to do and run it through the tube. When you have it where you want it fill the tube with silicone and snap the terminals back in the end.

 

[Marty Shallenberger]

I'm putting together a used Phil Thomas Sort 40.It would definitely make life easier to mount the rudder servo in the back of the boat so i have plenty of room for a 3rd channel set up in the nose. Building a cf box is no problem.

However, I'm wondering about the best way to make a waterproof wiring connection from box to box. Suggestions? I know the last thing I want is a wad of gooped on silicone to make the seal.

I see most of the manufacturers of high torque digital servos (I am using a Futaba 9350 with a 6 volt battery) caution against using extensions. I suppose a key would using larger wire to reduce resistance and heat.

Mike

Remind me to show you how I did it on the Gas Scale Bud for the the canard gyro

Marty

 

[Don Ferrette]

I'm putting together a used Phil Thomas Sort 40.It would definitely make life easier to mount the rudder servo in the back of the boat so i have plenty of room for a 3rd channel set up in the nose. Building a cf box is no problem.

However, I'm wondering about the best way to make a waterproof wiring connection from box to box. Suggestions? I know the last thing I want is a wad of gooped on silicone to make the seal.

I see most of the manufacturers of high torque digital servos (I am using a Futaba 9350 with a 6 volt battery) caution against using extensions. I suppose a key would using larger wire to reduce resistance and heat.

The key to keeping the hole entering and leaving the radio box and servo box small is to CAREFULLY lift the locking tabs and release the pins on the female side of your extension then drill a hole just big enough to get the pins/wires (held tightly in a "triangle") pushed thru the holes reinstalling the connector after you've run the extension. You want BOTH ends of the extension to be inside the boxes and a Parsons connector clip on the servo end is a plus (I also use these on ALL battery to switch connections)- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDT85

Done right the hole will be small enough that the servo extension wire will have a slight drag going thru the hole. I still seal the holes with silicone but only need a dab rather than a blob of it. Servo extensions are ok with a digital servo BUT you must use one listed as heavy duty that have larger gauge wire than the servos do- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSX1&P=SM

 

[VenomCC]

Why not just glass a piece of 1/2" carbon fiber tube in between the 2 boxes to run the wire thru.