OT: Lathe part

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Brad Christy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2002
Messages
1,390
Guys,

The toolpost compound on my lathe has given up and I need to find another one. I am forced to find a used one, since I know how proud Hardinge is of their stuff. So far, I have not been able to find what I'm looking for on eBay of any of the various used machinery venues. I am wondering if anybody might have on lying in the shop of might have seen one that could be made available.

Below are a couple pictures of what I need. I suspect the people who might be able to help me will know what to look for in the pics.

LMK.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

Compound_1.jpg

Compound_2.jpg
 
Guys,
The toolpost compound on my lathe has given up and I need to find another one. I am forced to find a used one, since I know how proud Hardinge is of their stuff. So far, I have not been able to find what I'm looking for on eBay of any of the various used machinery venues. I am wondering if anybody might have on lying in the shop of might have seen one that could be made available.

Below are a couple pictures of what I need. I suspect the people who might be able to help me will know what to look for in the pics.

LMK.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

You could look into a knock off of a Aloris tool post. I think they make one that would fit you lathe. You will need to adjust the size of the tee nut though. I think they runn right around 100 bucks. Check them out at J&L idustrial supply or Enco on line.

Mark
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Guys,
The toolpost compound on my lathe has given up and I need to find another one. I am forced to find a used one, since I know how proud Hardinge is of their stuff. So far, I have not been able to find what I'm looking for on eBay of any of the various used machinery venues. I am wondering if anybody might have on lying in the shop of might have seen one that could be made available.

Below are a couple pictures of what I need. I suspect the people who might be able to help me will know what to look for in the pics.

LMK.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
don't understand which part you need. we break the cam bolts all the time. what is bad?
 
Guys,
The toolpost compound on my lathe has given up and I need to find another one. I am forced to find a used one, since I know how proud Hardinge is of their stuff. So far, I have not been able to find what I'm looking for on eBay of any of the various used machinery venues. I am wondering if anybody might have on lying in the shop of might have seen one that could be made available.

Below are a couple pictures of what I need. I suspect the people who might be able to help me will know what to look for in the pics.

LMK.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

Brad are you talking about the toolpost holder or the compound it's self? I am not really sure what you are asking.
 
Guys,

Perhaps I worded it wrong. My toolpost is good. It's the compound that has worn out. The ass'y that rest directly on the x-axis part of the carriage, on which the toolpost is mounted. It rotates and allows you to turn a short taper or chamfer and has a hand dial. IT would appear that my lathe was once used to turn graphite electrodes or some such, as it was very worn. If I got more than about 3/8" from locked forward, it got pretty wobbly and was not very ridgid. I tried to clean up the wear, but there was too much and in the process I think I have completely destroyed it. I may be able to shim it back out, but in the meantime, I thought I'd tap the minds of IW for options.......

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
 
Brad check this out. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=5...;PARTPG=INLMK32 J&L has them also but the want More $'s for the same kit.
Mark

Brad

This is what I was going to point you to. These toolholders work very well for quick tool change on short run production. I set mine at 0 degrees with a rod in the chuck and then set the rod in a toolholder to line up. This allows me to set cutting tools and drills in differant holders and set them at the angles and height I need and then the change out is just a lever away.
 
Guys,
Perhaps I worded it wrong. My toolpost is good. It's the compound that has worn out. The ass'y that rest directly on the x-axis part of the carriage, on which the toolpost is mounted. It rotates and allows you to turn a short taper or chamfer and has a hand dial. IT would appear that my lathe was once used to turn graphite electrodes or some such, as it was very worn. If I got more than about 3/8" from locked forward, it got pretty wobbly and was not very ridgid. I tried to clean up the wear, but there was too much and in the process I think I have completely destroyed it. I may be able to shim it back out, but in the meantime, I thought I'd tap the minds of IW for options.......

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
Brad,

Sometimes you have to just rebuild these things. I take it the waves and gibs and lead screw / nut are worn, The lead screw can be replaced. McMaster-Carr sells all kind of lead screws. They could be made to work or you maybe able to find the exact type to make it fit yours by machining the ends. Or you can just make a new one. The waves can be remachined and then oversized gibs can be fitted to make the compound just like new. You have the talent to do the job. Do you still work in the machine shop?

Off subject but the history of machines is very unique. The first drills that were made, were to drill gun barrels. So the the gun barrel drill machine was born. Next the engine lath was born from that. Then drill presses came along. From there mills were born. And then more and more machines were made and invented. Each time a new machine was made like a engine lath the next one was better. The machines we use today are years of machines making machines to make better machines. And it will never stop being that way.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oh you need a new or you need to rebuild your "compound slide" not your tool post. Sorry I misunderstood what you where looking for.

Mark
 
Guys,
The toolpost compound on my lathe has given up and I need to find another one. I am forced to find a used one, since I know how proud Hardinge is of their stuff. So far, I have not been able to find what I'm looking for on eBay of any of the various used machinery venues. I am wondering if anybody might have on lying in the shop of might have seen one that could be made available.

Below are a couple pictures of what I need. I suspect the people who might be able to help me will know what to look for in the pics.

LMK.

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
remachine the dovetails, and build back up with turcite or rulon. then it will be slicker than snot
 
Steve,

Any more details you care to divulge? I've talked to a couple of machine rebuilders and the best ballpark quote I've gotten is $500 to build it up with Turcite. Is it something I could do myself? If so, what is the process?

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
 
Steve,
Any more details you care to divulge? I've talked to a couple of machine rebuilders and the best ballpark quote I've gotten is $500 to build it up with Turcite. Is it something I could do myself? If so, what is the process?

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
Brad, the best way is to remachine a new surface and then replace the gib with thicker or the same size. Or you could even regrind the gibs. Your only talking about maybe 0.010 to cleanup all of the surfaces. If you use the same size gibs or grind you will have to make shims for the backside of the gibs. This will restore to like new.
 
Steve,
Any more details you care to divulge? I've talked to a couple of machine rebuilders and the best ballpark quote I've gotten is $500 to build it up with Turcite. Is it something I could do myself? If so, what is the process?

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
Brad, the best way is to remachine a new surface and then replace the gib with thicker or the same size. Or you could even regrind the gibs. Your only talking about maybe 0.010 to cleanup all of the surfaces. If you use the same size gibs or grind you will have to make shims for the backside of the gibs. This will restore to like new.
the problem with taking off material here is that you have to maintain the same centerlines in both directions for the screw to work properly. i've used both rulon and turcite many times. you have to machine away enough material so you have enough room for the added material and the epoxy, then recut and still leave some turcite left. i like turcite the best. it machines great. mill or grind. use a dovetail cutter to remove say .030 to .060, then epoxy on your turcite, then machine the turcite back down to get your dimensions right for your screw to line back up with the nut. you can glue some on the gib also, then set it up on a magnetic compound sine table and grind it down on a surface grinder. talk to some of your buddies that work where they may have some scraps of this. i'ts pricey if you have to go buy a very big chunk. we used to get it from a bearing supplier(motion industries). i'ts very important to clean the area your going to glue, well. we used electrical contact cleaner. they have their own epoxy you should use. clamp the piece up with c clamps with pieces of metal against the turcite, and let it dry 24 hours. i'ts the shiznit. if you need a dovetail cutter, i can probabely find a loaner
 
Steve,

I found a piece of Turcite, 3" x 24" for $25 :D

Now for the epoxy. The sales rep says the only reason for the "special" epoxy is for temerature reasons. Can I use ANY two part epoxy? DevCon, West.....?

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
 
Steve,
I found a piece of Turcite, 3" x 24" for $25 :D

Now for the epoxy. The sales rep says the only reason for the "special" epoxy is for temerature reasons. Can I use ANY two part epoxy? DevCon, West.....?

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
i'd go with west. one side only is for glue. they should be able to tell you which one. clean every thing good, and don't touch your finger to the surfaces before you glue up. don't make your metal surface too smooth, give it some "tooth" to grab
 
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