porting

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Took some searching Sam, but I found them again. My original supplier has turned to the dark side. They were much cheaper at E-Power when they were in business. Motor men,,take note of this link.

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-RA91812S/18-X-12-Sanding-Band-w-2-Mandrels.aspx

Your best bet is setting the roll on the mandrel with a favorite soft set adhesive,,like Vibra-tite or something along those lines. The mandrels are fine thread for the band end. I blow the mandrel off with QD elec cleaner, apply the VT, let that set,,then thread the band on. They are tiny, and if you side load to hard, it will peel the band of or you will burn thru the band. They work great for patiently sanding layers away in tiny spaces. Use them for gunsmithing, hobby work, motor work. Bought 2 kits intially,,went back and bought a dozen more. They were $2.50 per kit. Some of the most helpful money I have spent with hobby tools.

You had grinding and polishing in there together,,so this covers both to an extent.
 
Sam... I have found polishing ports a bad idea.. fuel will have a tendency to "puddle" on the smooth surface and you could get inconstant runs.

Just food for thought.



Grim
 
Yes, you need to take great care and do some reading before grinding or polishing away the so called "rough spots". It will be a paper weight before you know it. You will pull all of the torque out of the motor with a few swipes of the tool. It will be lazy.

If you have a old junker motor and test mule boat, then whittle away,,but don't expect the world.
 
A rough surface creates a kind of boundary layer of air that keeps the air/fuel mixture from attaching to the wall of the case. too smooth and the mix will attach to the surface.. there are lots of articles to read on this topic.
 
Rough surfaces of the ports opening help to keep the fuel atomized for better burning..
 
The trick is to run the tool at a low speed. This keeps it from clogging from the aluminum getting soft.

Go on Ebay and you will find all kinds of cheep burs. Get the single cut ones for aluminum.

I use a 1/8" long round end 4 flute mill in a dremel run at slow speed. When making strait cuts in the back end of the case. Lay the mill down strait and you can cut with the side of the mill. Makes for a real nice and strait shot to the transfers.

1/8 " end mills fit right in the dremel and cut fast.

The finish is done with the diamond bits at slow speed. leaves just enough surface finish to keep the fuel from forming droplets.

SLOW SPEED is the ticket.
 
The trick is to run the tool at a low speed. This keeps it from clogging from the aluminum getting soft.

Go on Ebay and you will find all kinds of cheep burs. Get the single cut ones for aluminum.

I use a 1/8" long round end 4 flute mill in a dremel run at slow speed. When making strait cuts in the back end of the case. Lay the mill down strait and you can cut with the side of the mill. Makes for a real nice and strait shot to the transfers.

1/8 " end mills fit right in the dremel and cut fast.

The finish is done with the diamond bits at slow speed. leaves just enough surface finish to keep the fuel from forming droplets.

SLOW SPEED is the ticket.
That's. The kind of info I needed. Thanks.
 
Get a tube of cutting wax from your local supplier it keep burrs from loading up and can be used for band saws , sanding belts grinding discs etc . We grind and cut the living hell out of aluminum with big , nasty burrs at high speed in die grinders and this stuff is amazing !!
 
Battery Powered Dremel
default_wink.png
 
Back
Top