Chine walk

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
What size? Don't run them loose. They stuff from being aired out and taking wakes and chop to far back. Very little to no negative strut angle. Work with strut height.
 
I had one it ran awesome. Same prop done by Jerry. See if you can get a prop from Jerry. I know he very busy outside of boats but it's worth it.
 
Jerrys own boats do it- thats when its Happy is all
default_wink.png
 
Chine walk is usually from overpowering or side to side cg wrong.But if you built to instructions it should be okay..Try a ABC 55x69/3 if you can find one.
Hard to imagine it being overpowered....here's a .40 size Seaducer with a radical 101 at 95ish MPH.image.jpeg
 
These boats have to appear to be glued to the water when running by yourself in calm water . In race water they will loosen up . You can't run it like an Allison lol or it will drop the nose at some point and stuff hard , as you have already found .
 
These boats have to appear to be glued to the water when running by yourself in calm water . In race water they will loosen up . You can't run it like an Allison lol or it will drop the nose at some point and stuff hard , as you have already found .
Danny's pic reflects what would be a decent SAW setup on a perfect day -
default_ohmy.png


As GoFast pointed out, whole nother animal in race water - Dont sweat the chine walk, its part of running a SeaDucer- MOST of the fastest and more importantly , most of the most consistent Seaducers I have seen win races do it.

I refer to it as the " happy dance " cause its usually fast as heck AND finishes heats, its a fine line
default_cool.png
 
Last edited by a moderator:
These boats have to appear to be glued to the water when running by yourself in calm water . In race water they will loosen up . You can't run it like an Allison lol or it will drop the nose at some point and stuff hard , as you have already found .
Danny's pic reflects what would be a decent SAW setup on a perfect day -
default_ohmy.png
default_cool.png
Decent huh? Tough crowd. My pic was in relation to the chine walk being or not being do to overpowering. It is in no way a example of how they run in heat racing. The correct advice was given already much earlier in the thread. You could stop the chine walking totally by adding trim tabs. But that is not how the bottom was designed and it would screw the boat up. They all do it. Heck when the seaducer monos first came out I called them wee or wobbles. That little bugger would wobble and win. Lol.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I find that rudder depth and rudder thickness has a big impact on the seaducers running loose and chine walking.

Check to see whether your rudder depth and offset is exactly as Jerry recommends. Also make sure you are using one of his 3/16" thick blades. if this is all as per the instructions, including the motor placement, then the only thing I cna think of is prop sharpness and strut angle.

Other than that, as others have alluded to, keep your strut level with the keel. this can be hard to work out due to the hook at the end of the keel, so best way to ensure you have a dead level strut is to lay something that is dead straight along the entire length of the keel and to use that to line up to the strut.

Its only takes very slight movements of the strut. when at the lake after you have set the strut as straight as you can, if it is still running loose, use a razor blade and mark the top of the strut on the bracket. then tap the strut up to cover the line. do that until it settles.

get the prop sharp, rudder placement and depth right first, then correct work on the strut.
 
Chine walk happens when v bottom boat is so far up and out of the water it can't find a flat surface to ride on. [A PAD BASS BOAT] So it falls from one side to the other trying to find the flat surface to ride on.

No prop, or rudder, will help. You must give the boat a flat surface to ride on.

The way that works for me is to install trim tabs as far out as possible and bend the last 1/4" to 1/2" flat with the water line. This gives the boat white water or spray to ride on. Care must be taken that you stay out of green water to not affect the ride in the straight away. The bottom of the boat must be straight NO HOOK NO ROCKER ALLOWED which is cause by curing of the boat. With a hook in the boat you might as well drop your trim tabs and drive the nose down killing speed.
 
Do not take the hook out of the bottom of that boat it is in there for a reason and do not put trim tabs on that boat either like Danny said it is not designed for it
 
Year-old thread guys.

The Seducer does not use trim tabs and a hook is designed into the hull on purpose. They all chine walk to some degree, I watched Jerry run over 90 mph at a SAW competition and it chine walked some doing it. It also dive into the water, burying itself 2' into the bottom.

Like all deepvees, raising the strut will lower the boat into the water, reducing the tendency to rock back and forth on the sharp keel. It is a balance between drag and stability. Just the nature of the beast.

.
 
I've had the same problem with my .40 mono. I went to a 2 blade prop. And sharpen the leading edge or (race ready) prop. Dropped my trim tabs a few turns.(inside screws on the tab.) Lower the CoG on a seducer were? -no can do they skinny.Just need to test my adjustments. They all rock to some degree.
 
Back
Top