water flow restriction
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Bill, put a remote needle valve on the water line and adjust to your needs.................
Bill,
We have a tee fitting that regulates the water flow with a 4-40 screw.
We run them on all of our boats to control the engine temperature.
Send me your email address and I will send you a picture if you would like?
Thanks For Reading,
Mark Sholund
We have a tee fitting that regulates the water flow with a 4-40 screw.
We run them on all of our boats to control the engine temperature.
Send me your email address and I will send you a picture if you would like?
Thanks For Reading,
Mark Sholund
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Mark,
I tried the T's with the screw and it worked great for a while but eventually the tubing bursts somewhere between the rudder and the valve from the pressure. Cost me a few DNF's as the engine overheated after the water line burst. I found you still need to jb weld the fitting on the rudder and drill a smaller hole so that less pressure is built up between the rudder and the T valve.
Just my two cents.
I tried the T's with the screw and it worked great for a while but eventually the tubing bursts somewhere between the rudder and the valve from the pressure. Cost me a few DNF's as the engine overheated after the water line burst. I found you still need to jb weld the fitting on the rudder and drill a smaller hole so that less pressure is built up between the rudder and the T valve.
Just my two cents.
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RodneyPierce
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use a plastic fitting at the water outlet of the head tapped for a 4-40 screw. Then drill holes in the 4-40 screws starting at .020 and going up by .010. I have never needed anything larger then a .060 on a .21 motor. Then use a plastic 90* fitting at the rudder, and drill a .063 hole in the backside of it to bleed off the excess pressure from the restricted water exit. works like a charm, every time.
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Nice! I Haven't seen a post from Rodney in a while. Are you getting the itch to run some boats again?
Samuel Hagan JR
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Someone told me you sell these. I would like one for my VAC 45
Brad Christy
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Guys,
I've been using a zip tie on my water line just above the water outlet at the top of my rudder for ever and it works great. The only thing I don't like is having to cut it off and start over whenever I have to open up the flow some. To that end, Mark's Tee fitting would probably be just the trick. Two things would help a great deal in eliminating water line ruptures: Keep the distance between the rudder and the valve as short as possible and use a much smaller pick-up hole in in the rudder. I've got a 1/16" hole in my .45 rudder and a .040" hole in my .21, and I still have to squeeze them down.
Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine And Precision KKC
I've been using a zip tie on my water line just above the water outlet at the top of my rudder for ever and it works great. The only thing I don't like is having to cut it off and start over whenever I have to open up the flow some. To that end, Mark's Tee fitting would probably be just the trick. Two things would help a great deal in eliminating water line ruptures: Keep the distance between the rudder and the valve as short as possible and use a much smaller pick-up hole in in the rudder. I've got a 1/16" hole in my .45 rudder and a .040" hole in my .21, and I still have to squeeze them down.
Thanks. Brad.
Titan Racing Components
BlackJack Hydros
Model Machine And Precision KKC
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I'd start with an 0.030" hole (#69 drill), I use that size on my 20 mono but have smaller water passages in a custom rudder.
Start way rich and run a few hard laps to get up to temp, then lean it down carefully a little at a time. You should hear the occasional "burp" down the straight or when the prop unloads, if it leans out in the corners with the extra load you're over cooling it. Restrict the water some more and richen up the needle.
Here's a great paper Marty Davis did on the subject: file:///C:/Users/Owner/Documents/Downloads/water.htm
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steve wood
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dubro plastic t with a 4-40 screw in 1 side
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You're welcome...
Andy Brown
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Whenever using a restriction in the water line be sure to drill a hole in the back of the rudder blade near the top of the blade as Rodney mentioned. It will reduce the chances of blowing out the water line. We have been doing it that way for nearly 25 years without blowing a line. We use an .040" to .062" bleeder hole in the back of the blade.
Charles Perdue
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What about a non electronic, mechanical water temp controller. Small, light, simple and fool proof. I have one that has already been developed and tested. Now I just have to get the time to tool up, make them and build a calibration device. Coming soon......
Charles
Charles
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