Boat storage and problems with heat.

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Jeffmaturo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Messages
547
Anyone have any problem with storing their wood and fiberglass boats in a garage or workshop with no A/C? I have all of my boats in a workshop that I don't keep the A/C on full time. Will I be dealing with issues in the future with either type of boat or even the motors? In the summer here in Florida, it easily gets over 110 degrees inside the shed. Thanks!
 
Anyone have any problem with storing their wood and fiberglass boats in a garage or workshop with no A/C? I have all of my boats in a workshop that I don't keep the A/C on full time. Will I be dealing with issues in the future with either type of boat or even the motors? In the summer here in Florida, it easily gets over 110 degrees inside the shed. Thanks!
Jeff,

Here in Alabama we race in the summer hot or not, but to answer your question, During the hot summer here in Al. we do not store our boats with any motors in them and do not tie them down if you have to hang them keep the tie downs loose, I also take the shafts out and put them in a plastic container soaking in trans oil.

Walt Barney
 
Heat at that level can affect the bonding of epoxy or poly. If you can't control the temperature, keep the boats as low in the building as you can. Since it's hotter toward the ceiling, keeping the boats lower will minimize the temperatures they will be subjected to. Something else that could help is to try to keep the boats on the north or east side of the building. Since the sun will be hottest on the south and west sides, the temperature will also be higher there as well.
 
Never had any problems with the boats or airplanes as long as they are dry . I open everything up and engines , except the lawn equipment boats , are removed etc .
 
I've seen people warp the bottom of fiberglass monos after leaving them on the stand in the garage full time. I'm sure it depends on how its supported, but now I store mine upside down on the deck. I never leave the motors in boats either. Nitro motor bearings are always going to drip some oil and letting that sit in a hull can penetrate the resin or paint over time. Plus the added weight doesn't help when it comes to warping.

You can only do so much but a litte extra thought could help you avoid some problems, especially in that kind of heat.

Brian
 
My biggest concern was my wood boats coming apart at the seams. Did not know if epoxy is vulnerable to that type of indirect heat.
 
My biggest concern was my wood boats coming apart at the seams. Did not know if epoxy is vulnerable to that type of indirect heat.
One of the easiest ways to get an epoxy seam to weaken to take it apart is to heat it. How hot you have to get it really depends on the epoxy used and the materials being joined.
 
really hot here in Southern California garages (especially in L.A. inland valley area's, very hot and dry), with no air-conditioning. I'm always concerned about potential deterioration of model's, materials (paint, glue, etc.,...), as well as electronics (ie. RC gear, etc.,...). I try to store RC gear (especially battery packs, etc.,...) inside house (as much as wife allows).

My garage is humanly un-inhabital during hot daytime weather (may be easily 105 - 110F internally). I can only work either early morning or late afternoon/evening. I have to let garage air-out at least 30 minutes upon opening door before going inside to work. All objects are very warm to-the-touch. Gallons of fuel and paint thinner's become pressurized.

Seems to me epoxy-glass models have exhibited more stability under these hot storage conditions (compared to polyester resin-based lay-up's) in my experience. I have an old un-built Dumas (polyester resin) fiberglass deep vee kit in which the un-joined deck has become extremely warped to the point where it will not line-up with the hull, it's useless. While, at the same time, I have two or three Prather epoxy-glass boats, stored sitting on their stands horizontally, that look very good, no warpage (after 25 years of garage storage).
 
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I am to Old School to worry about the scientific things like this?? Living in the Orlando area it gets warm but I haven't experienced any strange annomilies with any hull or motor I have kept out of the weather and in a dry place!! Never have noticed any changes in the hulls for so many years I don't bother checking unless they are really irratic??

Later!!

Pat
 
really hot here in Southern California garages (especially in L.A. inland valley area's, very hot and dry), with no air-conditioning. I'm always concerned about potential deterioration of model's, materials (paint, glue, etc.,...), as well as electronics (ie. RC gear, etc.,...). I try to store RC gear (especially battery packs, etc.,...) inside house (as much as wife allows).

My garage is humanly un-inhabital during hot daytime weather (may be easily 105 - 110F internally). I can only work either early morning or late afternoon/evening. I have to let garage air-out at least 30 minutes upon opening door before going inside to work. All objects are very warm to-the-touch. Gallons of fuel and paint thinner's become pressurized.

Seems to me epoxy-glass models have exhibited more stability under these hot storage conditions (compared to polyester resin-based lay-up's) in my experience. I have an old un-built Dumas (polyester resin) fiberglass deep vee kit in which the un-joined deck has become extremely warped to the point where it will not line-up with the hull, it's useless. While, at the same time, I have two or three Prather epoxy-glass boats, stored sitting on their stands horizontally, that look very good, no warpage (after 25 years of garage storage).
Good post David, thank you.
 
Anyone have any problem with storing their wood and fiberglass boats in a garage or workshop with no A/C? I have all of my boats in a workshop that I don't keep the A/C on full time. Will I be dealing with issues in the future with either type of boat or even the motors? In the summer here in Florida, it easily gets over 110 degrees inside the shed. Thanks!
Jeff,

I hang all my outboard tunnels up with a long wire hook. I typically make them from heavy gauge wire coat hangers. I make the hooked ends fairly long (at least 2") so that it can not accidentally get bumped and knocked down. I have never had one fall. All my models are hanging in my shop by the adjustable engine mounts and they are up high enough to be completely out of the way. This keeps the weight of the boat from distorting anything on the bottom of the boat. I've done this for years. My friends get their boats out after a few years of sitting around on boat stands and they are sanding their sponsons the first day back at the pond because the boat won't hold trim....while mine are good to go. Plus I have 3/32 inch drain holes drilled on the inside of each sponson near the tip so that while it is hanging, any moisture can find its way out of the boat instead of condensing around inside the hull and never completely drying out. As far as the heat issue, My shop typically reaches the high 90's during the summer when closed up and it has never caused an issue. Actually I think it helps dry everything out. If I were you, I would make sure that where ever you choose to keep your boat, it needs to stay out of any direct sunlight. Having your model sit with the sun shining in on it can be a problem over time. Hanging your models also clears up some table space so that I can make use of all the available room in my shop.
 
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