provee pulling hard to the left

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don campbell

don campbell

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2009
Messages
24
ok prop is sharp, i think? boat will not turn right under power. when accelerating I have to apply full right rudder to hold my line. I am running 275 prop and all zippkitts hardware. any ideas?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
servo seams strong enough. can't move it with my hands. and no flex in steering . i'am sharpening prop again, tongue may not have been sharp enough
 
Even if your servo seems strong, keep in mind that the prop is putting continuous pressure on the servo for an extended period of time. Eventually, the servo may start to yield to the incessant pressure. The power required to hold a servo in place is a good bit greater than the power to move it (it actually moves by turning power OFF to one set of windings). You may just need something to amplify your servo torque, like a ServoCity servo gearbox. You can get various gear reduction ratios, 3:1, 4:1, even 5:1. With a medium strength servo (250 oz-in,for instance), you can have 750 to 1750 oz in of torque to hold the rudder true. Sounds like a lot, but that is what I recommend for the Gas Outboards that run my G-Drive. Another advantage is that the gear reduction slows down your servo speed as much as it is multiplying the torque, so you'll have much more manageable steering without having to mess around with settings on your transmitter. With shipping, it is under $200, including the assembly (highly recommended) and a quality Hitec servo. If you have a Hitec servo, you can order it without, but beware, you have to disassemble your servo and re-wire it. Use your servo somewhere else and order one from them, assembled. Here's a part number to look at/order: TM-805MG-180 (That is a top-mount gearbox, Hitec 805 Metal Gear servo.) Pick your gear reduction ratio and assembled or not. Top mount gearboxes may require you to add mounting rails to your radio box. You can also order bottom mount and just screw it to the bottom of your radio box. Get the special servo arm and clamp, or you can order one from me. For more detailed info about the servo gearbox and why I recommend it, check my website www.lawlessdrives.com and read the "Extra Info" section.

As my gift to anyone who likes this idea, use this code (CS061114-5) in the discount coupon or code box at checkout and save 5% off your order. (That's a zero, not an O)

Courtesy of Lawless Drives

In case you're wondering, I don't get any commission for recommending the gearbox. (wish I did)

OOPS, I almost forgot, the website is www.servocity.com and the gearboxes are under
Robot Parts.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I can help.

First, get out your straight edge and square.

Set all of your trim tabs so that they are 100% parallel to the bottom. Not even, but parallel. This is the number one issue with the boat not turning. It needs zero right outer tab to turn. It does fine on it's own.

Set your turn fin(s) so that they are exactly 90 degrees to the bottom. Not 89 or 91.

Make sure you have a strong rudder servo (150+ in/oz). Digital preferred.

Make sure your prop is thin and sharp, not just sharpened at the edge. If you want to try another prop, try a 2716/2-20 by one of the excellent prop guys like G-force, DasBoata, Bob Austin, Mark Sholand, Brent Daily, etc.

If you want the boat to go straight with a strong engine and little to no left rudder, move the stinger to the right 1/4 inch. this helps a bunch, but is not needed with a stock or mild motor.

Call me if you want to talk about it.
(866) 922-9477
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joe Petro said:
I can help.

First, get out your straight edge and square.

Set all of your trim tabs so that they are 100% parallel to the bottom. Not even, but parallel. This is the number one issue with the boat not turning. It needs zero right outer tab to turn. It does fine on it's own.

Set your turn fin(s) so that they are exactly 90 degrees to the bottom. Not 89 or 91.

Make sure you have a strong rudder servo (150+ in/oz). Digital preferred.

Make sure your prop is thin and sharp, not just sharpened at the edge. If you want to try another prop, try a 2716/2-20 by one of the excellent prop guys like G-force, DasBoata, Bob Austin, Mark Sholand, Brent Daily, etc.

If you want the boat to go straight with a strong engine and little to no left rudder, move the stinger to the right 1/4 inch. this helps a bunch, but is not needed with a stock or mild motor.

Call me if you want to talk about it.

(866) 922-9477
Click to expand...

How's that for customer support!!!
default_smile.png
 
I just noticed that you said it was pulling left! Sorry.

Most of that still applies. I think it is your trim tabs. The PV is very sensitive to even a 1/4 turn on the tabs. They need to be perfect.
 
Joe

I just built one for this year. The question is this. If they are so touchy and need to be parallel, do you need them at all?

Thanks Bill
 
That is a great question Bill!
I have never run without them, but I will.

I will try for back to back runs, and see what happens. The way my time is, you will prolly get that boat built and tested before I get out again...
 

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