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Need some paint advice - PX300 epoxy sealed tunnel


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 09:53 AM

So, I'm finishing up my PX-300 build and need some feedback on the path forward.

 

The hull is built and it's been sealed with finishing epoxy and it's time to paint. I can not use any kind of spray application meaning all options have to be brush-on.

 

This is the plan:

 

- Scuff/sand surface.

- Paint with acrylic paint. Homefront decoration color, acrylic paint (or similar). Apply a few layers.

- Finish with Minwax fast drying Polyurethane gloss clear.

 

Will this work ok? It's a fast-electric so it doesn't need to be fuel proof. The products are cheap and readily available.

 

Thanks,

Christian





#2 Mark Simmons

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 01:56 PM

Just an FYI I used that over a royal blue and after about a month it turned sea green.



#3 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 02:07 PM

Yikes, thanks.

The colors used will be black and white.



#4 brad nichols

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 05:28 PM

Try glass coat and see if they have there epoxy paint in a rattle can up here in Alberta we can get Endura in a spray bomb.

 

Brad



#5 BobLondress

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 07:55 PM

The Polyurethane should not yellow if it has UV additives. I used some PU spar varnish to coat a wooden machinists tool box years ago, still looks good. Rub it in with your finger until it disappears, let dry a day or so, lightly buff with steel wool or scothbrite. Repeat several coats, buff the last coat until flat looking, then finish with minwax wax. Makes a nice satin finish

#6 BobLondress

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 08:03 PM

Oh another thing, the boat in my avatar is a crackerbox I built a few years ago. it was finished with epoxy inside and out. the interior was clear and needed UV protection because straight epoxy will yellow. The exterior was finished with Petit unepoxy one part. and coated with 2 coats of spar varnish. No discoloration.

#7 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 19 February 2016 - 08:26 PM

Thank you for the feedback.

Not being able to spray makes for a lot more work. Already put down 3 layers of acrylic paint. Wet sanding with 320, 600 and then 2000 grit paper gives a satin/shine surface. Stopping at 600 should give a good surface for the PU clear.

 

The main concern with all this was if the paint would stick on the epoxy and if the PU will stick to the acrylic paint. Seems like the acrylic works well enough on the epoxy.

 

:)



#8 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 21 February 2016 - 10:10 AM

There's not more to say than:

 

Don't follow this. It's a mess. It looked good with just the epoxy seal.

 

 

Tons of work to save the hull.



#9 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 27 March 2016 - 03:21 PM

Tons of sanding followed by several layer of Rustoleum White and the Gloss Clear saved the hull.

 

Phew.



#10 Mike Luszcz

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Posted 28 March 2016 - 12:23 PM

Any pics?



#11 Christian Holmstedt

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Posted 01 April 2016 - 07:11 PM

It's nothing out of the ordinary but if it not were for the bad start it would be much better.

 

I sanded the old bad paint to a somewhat smooth surface and added 3 coats of gloss white, sanded with 'Fine' 3M sanding block, added 2 layers of gloss clear, sanded with 2000 grid (wet) and added another 2 layer, followed once again with 2000 grit (wet).

 

Some regular car polish brought out a smooth gloss shine. It doesn't show in the pictures.

 

 

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#12 GraysonTaylor

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 08:10 AM

Way way back when I only had an airbrush I decided that it wasn't worth it for a whole boat. I used K&B and hobby poxy paints and primers. The primer got sanded,so no need for a fancy brush. For the color coat I did use the most expensive 1.5" brush I could find. The brush was the key to no brush marks. Once the brush was used, it got retired to primer duty. Klass Coat looks to be the same as HP or KB. When you have limited resources you do whatever to get on the water!

Now after many years later I'm trying auto paint. Large expense and lots of practice projects and it can frustrating. I kind of like the simpler time when I didn't care about a show finish and actually ran boats.

#13 PaulHail

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 09:33 AM

If you can't spray, then you should roll and tip.  You apply the paint with a roller to get even coverage, then tip with a brush to smooth out the roller marks.  No it doesn't look as good as a sprayed finish, but much better than a brushed finish.  The downside is you'll likely apply more paint than a sprayed finish.



#14 GraysonTaylor

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 11:02 AM

I'm having a tough time picturing that roller. I got my best results by not going back with the brush. Let in the paint flow out on its own. A hairdryer helps that happen.

#15 PaulHail

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 11:40 AM

This was the best write up I could find:

 

http://bateau2.com/h...ng_roll_tip.php