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HERE'S A LITTLE SOMETHING I WHIPPED UP IN MY GARAGE


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22 replies to this topic

#16 Jeff Barnhart

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 04:06 PM

Steve,

 

I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32.  I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race.  Having more to crank down on would be nice.

 

TG

You need to roughen the surfaces that clamp together.

 

The friction between the surfaces is what should be transmitting the shear loads in that direction (in other words, the friction between the surfaces is what is preventing the rudder from kicking back due to water drag) and if they are too smooth, you don't have enough friction to clamp it in place. In this type of connection, the bolt is purely in a tensile load from being tightened.  

 

Here is some information that will explain what I'm talking about further. http://en.wikipedia....-critical_joint





#17 Jerry Dunlap

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 07:21 PM

 

Steve,

 

I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32.  I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race.  Having more to crank down on would be nice.

 

TG

You need to roughen the surfaces that clamp together.

 

The friction between the surfaces is what should be transmitting the shear loads in that direction (in other words, the friction between the surfaces is what is preventing the rudder from kicking back due to water drag) and if they are too smooth, you don't have enough friction to clamp it in place. In this type of connection, the bolt is purely in a tensile load from being tightened.  

 

Here is some information that will explain what I'm talking about further. http://en.wikipedia....-critical_joint

 

Dang, that Gonzaga engineering degree is being put to good use.

 

JD





#18 Steve Seebold

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 10:20 AM

 

Before anyone asks, I made 40 assemblies. They're $65.00 each. Dealer inquiries are invited.

I guess you don't give up

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Posted 08 February 2014 - 09:47 PM

I'm looking for some running gear for a Classic Thunderboat I'm building, and I don't like the stuff that's currently available.

 

I could make it myself, but I got back in to the areoapace industry a few weeks ago, and now I just don't have time.

 

Besides, I have been forbidden from advertising my stuff on this site.

 

Nope, I never give up. I'm not a quitter, Never have been, never will be. This time, i showed a product before I said anything about what I can do. I know I stired up a lot of crap before when I said what I can make and then never produced or showed anything. For that I apologize. I won't be doing that again.

 

Ron Jefferson sent me some running gear to duplicate and I didn't do it and it took me a long time to send it back to him. For that I sincerely apologize. He finally had Steve Wood make him some new running gear to replace what he sent me. I offered to reimburse him for what he spent to have Steve make his new stuff, but he never let me know how much he paid for it. My offer still stands

 

I asked for anyone who makes running gear for my Thunder boat and I received a lot of suggestions. Thank you for that. I just don't care for 2 or 3 piece standoffs or the waterline being exposed like most folks make it, and I think a wire tie on the standoff to prevent that waterline from flopping around looks tacky. Imagine how it would look if you had a $300,000.00 Ferrari and the air filter was outside the engine box because  someone didn't have enough imagination to put it under the hood. I know that's an exaggeration, but I think you get what I am saying

 

I know I asked for Thunder Boat running gear and what I made is for monos. That's because I run mostly monos. I race them, but you never hear about me in the winners circle because I suck as a driver. I think in the 13 years I have been racing, I have ONE first place finish and that was by attrition. My boat was the last one running. I even slowed down because I'm chicken. I didn't want to get a DNF. I mean, hell, I was about to get 400 points, why should I settle for 25. 

 

Right now, I am working on a batch of outdrives for gas boats and yes they are going to be expensive, but I have sold some to racers who are on their 5th season and haven't replaced the lead teflon bushings yet.

 

There will be more stuff coming. I won't show any of it till it's finished and ready for sale, and i won't talk about it until I'm ready to put up some pictures.

 

OK, lets all go burn up some water.


Edited by Steve Seebold, 09 March 2014 - 10:24 AM.


#19 Ron Jefferson

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 05:12 PM

Ok Steve,  Send $83.00usd via paypal to rdjefferson@sympatico.ca or to the following address via usps International money order...

 

Ron Jefferson

330 Canterbury Place

Belmont, ON. Canada

N0L 1B0



#20 Steve Seebold

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Posted 09 March 2014 - 09:10 PM

Ok Steve,  Send $83.00usd via paypal to rdjefferson@sympatico.ca or to the following address via usps International money order...

 

Ron Jefferson

330 Canterbury Place

Belmont, ON. Canada

N0L 1B0

OK Ron, it's on its way via paypal. If I could undo what I did to you, I would do it. Unfortunately, I cannot unthrow a rock or unring a bell.


Edited by Steve Seebold, 09 March 2014 - 10:21 PM.


#21 paulrees

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 02:10 PM

 

Steve,

 

I would make the top pivot bolt a 10-32.  I say that because no matter how much I crank on a steel 8-32 pivot bolt the rudder slightly kicks back during a race.  Having more to crank down on would be nice.

 

TG

Hey Tyler, I like your idea, BUT, if you happen to hit something with the rudder held that tight, I think you'll stand a really good chance of doing some major damage to the back of the boat. Probably something like rip the transom out.

 

I have run the 8-32/4-40 screw combination for a long time and never had a problem. I would say, if you're really concerned about your rudder moving at high speeds in today's heat racing, I know a simple solution. SLOW DOWN. LOL  

Ripped out the back of my transom just like you are saying Steve. Was running in my boat a fly casting pond, I hit one of the PVC casting rings. Tore rudder right out


Edited by paulrees, 13 January 2015 - 02:20 PM.


#22 EdwardCox

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 02:34 PM

Steve, I would like to buy two of your pictured rudder assemblies if they are available
Ed Cox 843-928-3877
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#23 Steve Seebold

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Posted 05 December 2016 - 05:17 PM

Steve, I would like to buy two of your pictured rudder assemblies if they are available
Ed Cox 843-928-3877
Thanks

Good afternoon Ed, I have the rudder standoffs, but at this time I don't have any rudder blades. With my current work load, it's going to be 4 to 6 weeks before I can work rudder blades into the schedule. When I make them, I will usually make 50 to 100 pieces..