Sullivan Dynatron Starter

I was excited to install a brand-new Speedmaster electric starter handle/switch assy onto my original (31 year-old) Sullivan Dynatron starter unit. The starter unit was in good condition- so I thought. It was last used back in 1989, and operated just fine, and had been stored in my garage ever since. However upon further inspection I noticed the aluminum cone was noticeably crooked, and wobbly when rotated. I thought maybe it was not properly secured on the output shaft. So I removed the aluminum cone and noticed that the output shaft itself was bent. I figured the starter must have been dropped at some moment in time. What a pisser. I contacted Sullivan, they are sending me a replacement motor assy ($52.71 USD).

By-the-way, I run nitro motors ranging from 3.5cc to 13.00cc (.21ci to .81ci). I thought maybe I could get away using a new Sullivan Hi-Tork model starter, but figured it be best to be safe. I use a 24V set-up (dual 12v, 5A gel-cell's).

Either starter on 24v would have been fine.

When you say "hi-torque" are you talking the dark cased motor with yellow end caps? If so, that starter CAN start an 11cc(.67) but isn't really made for anything bigger. I start my scale boat with one, but it's a serious load for that starter. I'd also stick with 12 volts as it's not rated for 24. Here's what the Sullivan website says about the "hi-torque" deluxe starter:



The Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter
The most popular Sullivan starter ever! It's the first choice with RC airplane and nitro boat racers around the world. The Hi-Tork starter is suitable for all sport engines and as its name suggests, is capable of starting much larger capacity engines. Features a machined aluminum drive cone with pulley groove, 2.50" diameter steel body and yellow end caps. 12 VDC operation, maximum 80 amps. 210 in-oz (148 N-cm) of stall torque. 5500 no load RPM. For most engines up to 0.60 cubic inches (10 cc) and many to 1.20 cubic inches. No. S601.

For your larger boats, I'd use the Dynatron. Here's the website's take on it:


The Dynatron Starter
Every RC modeler knows about The Dynatron starter. It is considered a field essential by most and instantly tames stubborn engines into submission with its amazing starting power. The most powerful Sullivan 2.50" starter. Features a machined aluminum drive cone with pulley groove, 2.50" diameter steel body and gold end caps. 12 or 24 VDC operation, maximum 80 amps. 340 in-oz (240 N-cm) of stall torque at 12V, 680 in-oz (480 N-cm) at 24V. 4800 no load RPM at 12V, 9600 no load RPM at 24V. For most engines up to 2.4 cubic inches (40 cc). No. S603.

Either one will work on 24v and have plenty power.

I have a couple of nitro motors that two 12 jell cell Battery's new will not turn these motors over so I went and got me two lawn mower Battery's both are 275 Amps a peace hooked them up into 24 volts and my old starter will pop them over right along with my new Starter that I wasted my money on .Was talking to a friend of mine Andy he said some times them small battery's do not have enough he said he used a big amp car battery for years

Hydro Junkie said:

When you say "hi-torque" are you talking the dark cased motor with yellow end caps? If so, that starter CAN start an 11cc(.67) but isn't really made for anything bigger. I start my scale boat with one, but it's a serious load for that starter. I'd also stick with 12 volts as it's not rated for 24. Here's what the Sullivan website says about the "hi-torque" deluxe starter:

The Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter

The most popular Sullivan starter ever! It's the first choice with RC airplane and nitro boat racers around the world. The Hi-Tork starter is suitable for all sport engines and as its name suggests, is capable of starting much larger capacity engines. Features a machined aluminum drive cone with pulley groove, 2.50" diameter steel body and yellow end caps. 12 VDC operation, maximum 80 amps. 210 in-oz (148 N-cm) of stall torque. 5500 no load RPM. For most engines up to 0.60 cubic inches (10 cc) and many to 1.20 cubic inches. No. S601.

For your larger boats, I'd use the Dynatron. Here's the website's take on it:


The Dynatron Starter

Every RC modeler knows about The Dynatron starter. It is considered a field essential by most and instantly tames stubborn engines into submission with its amazing starting power. The most powerful Sullivan 2.50" starter. Features a machined aluminum drive cone with pulley groove, 2.50" diameter steel body and gold end caps. 12 or 24 VDC operation, maximum 80 amps. 340 in-oz (240 N-cm) of stall torque at 12V, 680 in-oz (480 N-cm) at 24V. 4800 no load RPM at 12V, 9600 no load RPM at 24V. For most engines up to 2.4 cubic inches (40 cc). No. S603.

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I really appreciate all the detailed input everyone.

I had read the starter details on the Sullivan website. And, yes, when I mentioned "Hi-Tork" I was referring to the very popular Sullivan (No. 601) Hi-Tork Starter, with the black-colored motor case. I contemplated getting this model as it is much lighter in weight (and less awkward) to handle for me, but was'nt sure about 24V operation. I know some folks do use them with 24V. So, to be safe, I went with another DynaTron model.

I used to use two 12V, 12A motorcycle (traditional wet lead-acid) batteries with my old DynaTron and it was very strong (almost twist my arm off ) . Actually everyone would revert to my unit when they experienced difficulty starting their engines.

Now I'm switching to two new MightyMax 12V, 5A gell-cell batteries, hoping to decrease the overall weight of my custom starting box. These new MightyMax 5A cells are nearly half the weight of the old 12A motorcycle battery's.

I bought this yellow Sullivan unit in 1980 at America's hobby in N.Y.......did some balancing on the rotor and converted it to Lipo...it turns my 101 and Quickdraw 25cc with no problem. Gill

gil sonsino said:

I bought this yellow Sullivan unit in 1980 at America's hobby in N.Y.......did some balancing on the rotor and converted it to Lipo...it turns my 101 and Quickdraw 25cc with no problem. Gill

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wow, nice set-up Gil, thanks. Are using 24V ?

Good Ole "America's Hobby Center", I purchased quite a few items from there back in the day (1980's)

Thanks Brian yes they are great hobby source at that time... working on 3S 3.3A Turnugy 40C all day long.

I have used a Sullivan Mariner S650 starter for many years. Specs on this starter are as follows:

The Mariner Boat Starter
Designed for starting all belt-start larger boat engines, this starter features a steel handle, steel end plates and a stepped aluminum drive pulley. The starter can be operated on 12V or 24V, maximum 100 amps. Output is 600 in-oz (424 N-cm) at 12V, 1200 (848 N-cm) at 24V. 2800 no load RPM at 12V, 5600 no load RPM at 24V. For most belt start marine engines. No-650

I have replaced this starter with the Fads Trading Tel Hobby starter shown in the photos. This starter is physically smaller, lighter in weight, developes more torque & RPM plus the battery supply is attached to the rear of the starter. The battery is a Lumenier 1800 mAh, 4 cell, 15.2 volt, 80c discharge, 160c burst, lithium polymer battery. The battery comes with a lipo safe storage bag.

Jim Allen

Jim Allen said:

I have replaced this starter with the Fads Trading Tel Hobby starter shown in the photos. This starter is physically smaller, lighter in weight, developes more torque & RPM plus the battery supply is attached to the rear of the starter. The battery is a Lumenier 1800 mAh, 4 cell, 15.2 volt, 80c discharge, 160c burst, lithium polymer battery. The battery comes with a lipo safe storage bag.

Jim Allen

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wow, that is a killer starter Jim. I saw a listing for one of these but never knew if many folks (here) were running them. Thanks

gil sonsino said:

did some balancing on the rotor

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Hi Gil:

So when you mentioned that you balanced the rotor are you referring to the complete rotating mass assy (shown in attatched image)? If so where do you remove material (from the core material)? (not that I'm even thinking about attempting to do this, but I'm curious how it's done)