New Motor Prep Document?

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longballlumber

longballlumber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2003
Messages
1,556
Does anyone have a link or document explaining the proper sets to prepping a new motor for use???? I have a fellow FE racer that has bought a new 5 port from Ron and would like to provide him with as much information as possible to get him started successfully going.

I have explained the basics of tearing down to clean up any lose machining fragments

de-burring the sleeve

prepping the carb

etc...

Basically just looking for information to pass along.

Thanks.
 
Just what you mentioned, plus make sure the crank is nice & free, if not figure out why.

I like loctite on everything but the head bolts. A good break in is important for a good running, long lasting motor IMHO, Nova's take a while from what I remember.

I run about 0.012" head clnc in everything from 21's to 90's.
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Terry Keeley said:
Just what you mentioned, plus make sure the crank is nice & free, if not figure out why.

I like loctite on everything but the head bolts. A good break in is important for a good running, long lasting motor IMHO, Nova's take a while from what I remember.

I run about 0.012" head clnc in everything from 21's to 90's.
default_smile.png
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply Terry,

Break in can be confusing for a new guy too. LOTS of different thoughts, theories, and ideas what is right or wrong. I will cross that bridge when we get there...

I was thinking 0.010" for his .21 to get him running. At 0.012" you shouldn't be taking out very many plugs!

See you this weekend.
 
TimothyJones said:
Mike,

I always liked the book Basics of Model Marine Engines by Al Hobbs.

It a old book but covers alot of what you just asked.

Tim
Click to expand...
Thanks Tim,

I need to get one of those for my own library. I KNOW there is more for me to learn too. I just want my FE buddy to get off on the right step.
 
one thing i see. not necessarily to the motor mike but just observation over the yrs from newer people, the tend to over complicate things.

keep it clean and simple.. do not use push rods with wheel collars connected together that type of stuff. instill in him to take the time to do things right. while it gets them running sooner people tend to not want to take that extra step to make sure it is done once and correct.

as far as the nova goes. this will sound dumb. but if he does dis assemble the motor.. make sure he puts the piston and rod back in the motor the right direction.. i know it sounds corny but you wouldn't believe how many people have done this and how easy it is. lol.

also if the top of the case has not been milled flat and has the step in it where the head sits.. make sure that if / when he sets up the head clearance he takes that into account.. dad during the mod process of motors always mills the case flat so the it is easy to check head clearance ect.

just some stuff i see.. nothing major but minor that can turn into major headaches
 
Glenn Quarles said:
Head clearance at .006" will work much better on that motor.

GQ
Click to expand...
I always end up hitting the head when I try to run down that low, get a nice mark on the piston from the squish band.

I like to run them fairly hot tho, especially the small stuff, really helps burn the fuel. Guess the crown expands a fair bit!
default_smile.png
 
Terry Keeley said:
Glenn Quarles said:
Head clearance at .006" will work much better on that motor.

GQ
Click to expand...
I always end up hitting the head when I try to run down that low, get a nice mark on the piston from the squish band.

I like to run them fairly hot tho, especially the small stuff, really helps burn the fuel. Guess the crown expands a fair bit!
default_smile.png
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my DD nova until Marty Davis suggested putting a 5 1/2 degree cut on the squish band of the button. Once I had that done I can get down to .006 using plastigauge. Engine is real happy now and pulls more prop than ever. I'm not sure the crown expanding is the issue as much as the crown having a higher angle than the button. Thus the crown of the piston hits the button closer to the plug if you are measuring your head clearance at the outer edge of the piston. Make sense?
 
Sorry for getting off track on you thread Mike. Best advice I could offer is to send the 5 port to your Dad. Lol
 
Chris Wood said:
one thing i see. not necessarily to the motor mike but just observation over the yrs from newer people, the tend to over complicate things.

keep it clean and simple.. do not use push rods with wheel collars connected together that type of stuff. instill in him to take the time to do things right. while it gets them running sooner people tend to not want to take that extra step to make sure it is done once and correct.

as far as the nova goes. this will sound dumb. but if he does dis assemble the motor.. make sure he puts the piston and rod back in the motor the right direction.. i know it sounds corny but you wouldn't believe how many people have done this and how easy it is. lol.

also if the top of the case has not been milled flat and has the step in it where the head sits.. make sure that if / when he sets up the head clearance he takes that into account.. dad during the mod process of motors always mills the case flat so the it is easy to check head clearance ect.

just some stuff i see.. nothing major but minor that can turn into major headaches
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input Chris, I really appreciate it. Several of the things you listed are things that new guys need to know and understand if they intend on doing some of this motor work/prep on their own. I was simply hoping there was a document or thread that had a majority of the information in one place.

Thanks

Mike
 

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