Picco P67 & P80, Vintage

David Bryant · Sep 30, 2016

Hello:

I have a number of brand-new Picco P67 & P80 engines I purchased back in 1988/1989 from Tidewater Engineering.

Attempting to disassemble a few for the last few days. Has been quite a challenge. Bolts were very tough to break-loose, Also tough to remove retianer clips from piston/wrist-pin assy.

Right now I'm really struggling to remove the piston/liner from a P80 crankcase (without jamming piston, etc.,...). The liner is very much tight in the case. What is the best method to extract liner, anyone know?

Appreciate your help.

Dave

Picco_P80-ductedFan_No.1_Sept2016_01.JPG

Picco_P80-ductedFan_No.1_Sept2016_02.JPG

LarryBeals · Sep 30, 2016

Use a plastick down to tap out

Mike Byer · Sep 30, 2016

A little dish soap in water in an old crock pot will warm it up and break down the old lube, plus it will swell the aluminum case more than the brass liner, and it should come apart easier. I've done this many times with old ebay engines that I have bought and were stuck.

mb

David Bryant · Sep 30, 2016

LarryBeals said:
Use a plastick down to tap out

thanks for the input guys

So far I have been using a plastic toothbrush handle to push liner from bottom-end, it's not budging (this is what I've always used).

Mike Byer said:
A little dish soap in water in an old crock pot will warm it up and break down the old lube, plus it will swell the aluminum case more than the brass liner, and it should come apart easier. I've done this many times with old ebay engines that I have bought and were stuck.

mb

I'm wondering, should I place in pot of boiling water?

I notice the bearings seem to be crunchy, I'm wondering if lubrication will restore smooth function?

FloridaScaleBoater · Sep 30, 2016

Thin piece of hardwood through the side ports, rotate piston up to the wood, using the piston crown against the wood to push the liner up and out

timothy johnson · Sep 30, 2016

Try a Paper Towel in the exhaust, works most times. You can use a wrench on the collect without any damage.

Kez · Sep 30, 2016

The Picco liner should not be a very tight fit in the case. It is probably the congealed oil. Here is what I do to unfreeze the parts.

1. Spray the engine with a lot of WD-40. Then I squeeze MMO into the parts. Let it sit.

2. Wrap the engine in aluminum foil.

3. After a long drive, open the hood and place the foil wrapped parts on the hot car engine.

You may have to repeat it a couple of time but I have never failed to take an old engine apart like this.

I have washed some engine parts and tuned pipes in hot water with soap and some dish soap can discolor aluminum parts

Hope this helps.

k

David Bryant · Sep 30, 2016

Kez said:
The Picco liner should not be a very tight fit in the case. It is probably the congealed oil. Here is what I do to unfreeze the parts.

1. Spray the engine with a lot of WD-40. Then I squeeze MMO into the parts. Let it sit.

2. Wrap the engine in aluminum foil.

3. After a long drive, open the hood and place the foil wrapped parts on the hot car engine.

You may have to repeat it a couple of time but I have never failed to take an old engine apart like this.

I have washed some engine parts and tuned pipes in hot water with soap and some dish soap can discolor aluminum parts

Hope this helps.

k

Thanks for your suggestion. You're definitely correct, the liner should not be nearly this tight, the problem is the old congealed oil. I did'nt have any issues with my other similiar Picco engine's, the sleeves slipped right out.

Sounds like using oil liberally and adding heat is the key. The only way I could do this is to use the oven, but probably not a good thing with WD40 & Marvel Mystery Oil, could be lethal?

Yeah, I tried boiling in water w/soap, I did get some discoloration, I'll have to fix that later. Actually I always use dish soap and hot water (from the faucet) to scrub/clean engine parts all the time, works just fine. But the higher temp from boiling causes the discoloration (as I have just learned)

Kez · Sep 30, 2016

David,

I will not put any engine parts with WD40 or MMO in the kitchen oven and that is why I put it on a hot engine. The car engine has a lot of thermal mass and will warm up the congealed oil allowing you to disassemble the parts. One more advantage about leaving it on a hot car engine is that I will not have to worry about watching the temperature.

The discoloration of the aluminum parts is actually corrosion leaving tiny pits on the surface. I will not put a piston or conrod in hot dish soap.

kez

David Ashcroft · Sep 30, 2016

Kez I dip my brandnew engine cases with bearings and crank left, then dip in bucket of hot soapy water and spin crank by hand to clear all impurities from the case,and bearings then let dry and lubricate,

David Ashcroft · Sep 30, 2016

David , Kez car engine idea is good,,but, I had a stuck sleeve before and just put in oven..Did free up sleeve, oh and bearings

David Bryant · Sep 30, 2016

David Ashcroft said:
Kez I dip my brandnew engine cases with bearings and crank left, then dip in bucket of hot soapy water and spin crank by hand to clear all impurities from the case,and bearings then let dry and lubricate,

yep, exactly what I've done for years, works fine

David Ashcroft said:
David , Kez car engine idea is good,,but, I had a stuck sleeve before and just put in oven..Did free up sleeve, oh and bearings

Thanks Dave. I have a physical access problem placing engine inside car engine compartment. We'll see what I can do. I'd prefer to avoid the mechanical method if possible

And, yes, I always place crankcase in oven to perform bearing changes, works fine as well.

David Bryant · Jan 25, 2017

Just curious if the Fast Eddy brand ball-bearing kits are decent enough to use as replacements for our racing marine engines? I believe these bearings use chrome steel cages?

http://www.fasteddybearings.com/picco-p65-65-sealed-bearing-kit/

Or would the Boca Bearing kit's provide a better replacement? (in particular the ENK-031HP kit?)

https://www.bocabearings.com/products/enk-031hp-4662

Are'nt phenolic (or polymite) cages better/safer?

brad nichols · Jan 25, 2017

Yes, steel cages are not the way to go!!

Brad

David Bryant · Jan 26, 2017

thanks

Bradley Ward · Feb 2, 2017

For many years I've used BALLISTOL good stuff! I was told many years ago that it treated wounds! Guns! And everything else! In WW1! I also used to use Kano Kroil for a long time until it became that hard to find in Australia! Both are in my opinion are as good as you can get

davetheacguy · Feb 6, 2017

I have a pair of reverse pliers. when Ya squeeze them they open. I also warm block, it helps loosen sleeve. It normally pops out ! Oh good luck finding a pair of these pliers ! Tough to come bye !

David Bryant · Feb 6, 2017

Bradley Ward said:
For many years I've used BALLISTOL good stuff! I was told many years ago that it treated wounds! Guns! And everything else! In WW1! I also used to use Kano Kroil for a long time until it became that hard to find in Australia! Both are in my opinion are as good as you can get

interesting, never heard of this (very popular) product, thanks!

David Bryant · Feb 6, 2017

davetheacguy said:
I have a pair of reverse pliers. when Ya squeeze them they open. I also warm block, it helps loosen sleeve. It normally pops out !

so how are you engaging the "reverse pliers" to remove sleeve? Pushing-up on the bottom-edge of the sleeve (from inside the crankcase lower opening)?

I was also considering heating case in oven (just as I remove and replace crankshaft bearings), have'nt tried it yet.

Thanks

Picco P67 & P80, Vintage

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