Dragon M-11 build thread

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moparbarn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #1

finally getting caught up on projects so i can get started on my dragon build. Just a teaser until i finish the engine work on my wife's subaru (seized t-belt idler/bent valves). Got the engine back in today, finish up over the weekend. Here's a some pics of a dry fit of the belly of a dragon, and 1 of my favorite part of this particular kit. The tank pictured is a sullivan RST-8, a perfect fit (-;

 

Kris Flynn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #2

What I found is the thinned epoxy dissolved the writing...maybe use a small amount of un thinned epoxy in that area first

On that...I have found super glueing a few joints with the weights and a couple of clamps in place the best so it is all tacked together then apply epoxy (like west systems) to "wick" into the joints and make em really strong. I like to leave it all clamped up for at least 2 days, 3 is best.

 

dave roach

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #3

Moparbran

Make sure that all edges were it is burnt wood is sanded or I use a fine wire wheel and knock all the burnt off were the glue is going or it willn't stick.Been there done that.The boat looks good.

Dave

 

Kris Flynn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #4

A sand/scuff with 80g is enough...no need to remove all the burnt edges...

As Grimracer said

"Leave the burnt edges exposed, we like to show them off!" Or something to that effect haha

 

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moparbarn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #5

kris here is something i found the other week at lowe's. most everything in the center section will be epoxied. i'll tack most of the sponsonswith this stuff. then seal the inside before i put the last sheet on. what size are the alignment holes on the pieces that get laminated? need to buy some hardwood dowel for that. thanx for the tips, i'm sure i'll be asking a few more questions along the way.

dave, thanx for the heads up. mike z. taught me that years ago. laser cutting cauterizes/seals the grain, & the epoxy can't penetrate. you absolutely have to open the grain back up by removing the burnt edges. folded sandpaper or even small files work well in the pockets where the tabs to fit in (-;

 

Kris Flynn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #6

they were perfect for some skewers i had lying around from years ago...but then i found the sizes to vary too much (who would have though haha)

I honestly do not use the holes, I just make sure i clamp the center on baking paper and between angles and then smaller clamps to hold the outer edges square, clamps on ends like you have done and a weight in the middle to keep it all flat and clamped down. I push the pieces down with a screwdrive or similar to make sure they are 'seated' mainly talking about items C5 and the outer parts.

I then apply epoxy into all the slots and cavities and let it wick in and around the joints to fill them up.

 

M

moparbarn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #7

My normal build board is underneath there, it was too big to clamp the center to. So it will get built on my setup board, another perfect fit. Also, that way I can move it & have the board below to clamp the channel for the sponsons to. I can work on them while epoxy on center section assemblies cures (-; I will have to modify a couple things on the radio box. I use cable steering with very small tube leadouts. Simple enough to glue a piece of ply over the provided holes for traditional seals. Then I will need to open up the throttle servo hole to accept a hs-225mg & slide the third channel servo foward a touch. Never have had much luck with mini throttle servos on ob's. Run mini's (hs-82mg) in all my monos, riggers & sport hydros with no issues. 225's have been bulletproof on my ob's.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Mar 19, 2015

Kris Flynn

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• Mar 19, 2015

• #8

no doubt the 225's would work great...85MG's these days...a few 82MG's dying lately...

more weight up front cant hurt

I try to do all the thinking for people and I still cannot please everyone hahaha. Glad you can tweak the build to suit you

 

Last edited by a moderator: Mar 19, 2015

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moparbarn

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #9

Not an issue, simple changes IMHO. Plenty of room in the box & on the servo tray, good job on a roomy .21 tunnel radio box. Heck, good job on all of it so far!!

BTW, I have a thing for low number signed boats (-:

 

michael faszcza

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #10

Looking good robin

 

Joey Jones

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #11

Looks really good, Robin. Thanks for posting a build thread. Very interesting!

-Joey

 

V

vision craft boats

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #12

My brother told me about using gorilla glue to build with. I guess alot of hydro guy's have been using it and it's much lighter.

 

M

Maryland FE

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #13

Robin,

I figure I'll add some Maryland Dragon pics to the mix. Sponson framing is done, ready for some foam and their skin.

 

Slideblues

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #14

Lookin good Robin !

The Nemesis is cool too,I got to run one of his early proto's

Gene

 

Kris Flynn

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• Mar 20, 2015

• #15

I dont use any foam Pete

Each compartment is sealed from the next anyway

 

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moparbarn

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• Mar 24, 2015

• #16

The "nominal" diameter of your skewers seems to have been 1/8", Kris. Took a couple transom sections with me & matched it up at my lhs today. Gonna start on the laminated parts tonight & get the servo tray modded, pics later.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Mar 24, 2015

M

moparbarn

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• Mar 26, 2015

• #17

ok, got some more done. all the longitudinal stringers are laminated, transom laminated, all edges that get epoxied are clean (that was a lot of careful work), center section is laid out flat & first 2 ribs are curing. servo tray modded for larger throttle servo & back wall of radio box sheeted for my cable leadouts. included a pic of the fiberglass cowl. the 2 outer side rails are just in the pic to align the 2 ribs, not there now.

 

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moparbarn

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• Mar 27, 2015

• #18

she's starting to look more like something! got the radio box top sheet & lid lip laminated, too. when laminating pieces prior to assembly, take a straight edge razor blade & scrape all the excess epoxy out of the corners & off the edges where you need glue joints. makes for a cleaner, tighter fit.

 

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moparbarn

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• Mar 27, 2015

• #19

everybody has their own methods of doing stuff. figured i'd share some of mine, hope it might help someone. clamping thinner parts can be difficult because stronger clamps can cause low spots where they're applied. the metal clamps are paper clips or gem clips. any office supply wil have them in all sizes. the other is a tip from mike z. in his villain kit instructions. take a clothespin apart, reverse the pieces & reassemble. makes a killer flat, light pressure, thin(fits in all sorts of little gaps for thin sheeting), cheap clamp. nothing really trick, just thought i'd share as i have them out on this build.

 

Slideblues

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• Mar 27, 2015

• #20

Nice, keep em commin.......

Yea Mikie is a handy guy to have around thru the years.

Dont know how many times I've used his tips n tricks,

Gene