7.5 Hawk

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gooycheese

Chat Moderator
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
1,801
Hi All,

I like this new forum arrangement :)

Ok I have been building the Hawk for almost 3 weeks now, I am not going as fast as I would like but I am trying. I have added some pics to my gallery and I was hoping for some suggestions or comments on my build. I am getting to the point of needing push rod boots, some people say robarts #400 and some say regular boots like aeromarine. I have heavy duty ball links and 4-40 rod and wheel collars to attach them together. I also have hs645mg for the rudder and hs225 for the throttle and third channel needle. I will order a OPS4885 header and OPS6280 tuned pipe this week. I need a failsafe what would be a good one too get, I am using a futaba 3pm FM radio? If all goes well I might paint this coming weekend, cross my fingers.

Thanks,

Paul

Please check these pics and let me know what ya think, thanks :)

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...si&img=1095
 
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Hi All,
I like this new forum arrangement :)

Ok I have been building the Hawk for almost 3 weeks now, I am not going as fast as I would like but I am trying. I have added some pics to my gallery and I was hoping for some suggestions or comments on my build. I am getting to the point of needing push rod boots, some people say robarts #400 and some say regular boots like aeromarine. I have heavy duty ball links and 4-40 rod and wheel collars to attach them together. I also have hs645mg for the rudder and hs225 for the throttle and third channel needle. I will order a OPS4885 header and OPS6280 tuned pipe this week. I need a failsafe what would be a good one too get, I am using a futaba 3pm FM radio? If all goes well I might paint this coming weekend, cross my fingers.

Thanks,

Paul

Please check these pics and let me know what ya think, thanks :)

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...si&img=1095

Paul,

The rudder needs to be a little shorter and make sure the leading edges on the rudder and the strut are very sharp. Also make sure to drill a drain hole(1/8-3/16ths) in the engine compartment left rear corner (as you were sitting in the boat). Make sure you leave clearance to pad the tank,2 or 3 mm foam from Hobby Lobby ,and make provisions to secure the tank.(rubber bands or???) Looks good.

Ron Jr
 
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Thanks Ron, I was thinking my rudder was about 1" too long I will take some measurements and post some numbers for a more exact cut off point. I have been considering using some brass tubing for a sleeve on my push rod, where they pas thru the bulk head and the transom. The sleeve will stick out past both sides about a 1/4" and the sleeve will be a close to water tight fit. I then will use some boots on the outsides with the sleeves on the inside, does this sound good? I have heard of people using just the brass tubing as boots, but I am not sure that will be good enough for me ( Ive seen my .12 boat hit shore too many times from water getting in the box, I don't want to take chances). Please everyone can you post some pic or point me in the direction of some pics of how your push rods are exiting you radio box that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ,

Paul

p.s. I want to have this boat ready for the water in less than 3 weeks, I hope to race it on August 18th.
 
I talked with Gary Preusse today, I asked about push rod seals he suggested a G&M seal does anyone know about these (I have heard good and bad ) any opinions? I also mentioned that I was going to try a third channel needle he asked why, he said he doesn't have one on any boat he runs ( is it that important to use a third channel needle)?? I have been considering building the boat without one and having everything ready for it to be installed when I am ready for it, any opinions on this ? Please everyone I Need Help, I so much want to finish building this boat but I am sorta at a stand still until I get the seals worked out and make a final decision on the needle.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

I am almost asking for "this is what I did it worked great", or "do this it works great". I cant decide how I want to go about this.
 
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I talked with Gary Preusse today, I asked about push rod seals he suggested a G&M seal does anyone know about these (I have heard good and bad ) any opinions? I also mentioned that I was going to try a third channel needle he asked why, he said he doesn't have one on any boat he runs ( is it that important to use a third channel needle)?? I have been considering building the boat without one and having everything ready for it to be installed when I am ready for it, any opinions on this ? Please everyone I Need Help, I so much want to finish building this boat but I am sorta at a stand still until I get the seals worked out and make a final decision on the needle.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

I am almost asking for "this is what I did it worked great", or "do this it works great". I cant decide how I want to go about this.

gary is very old school. great guy, very knowelable, but very old school. go with the third channel. bvm, cmdi, or os. forget the brass tubing on the pushrods. use 4-40 rods, with heavy rod ends on rudder. ball links or heavy clevises elswhere. use areomarine or hobby stuff seals. g and m seals don't allow enough movement.a 5/16 or so hole where the push rod exits the bulkhead, then ca on the seals. works for most everyone. if your rudder pushrod is very long use a large ss rod and thread to 6/32 to keep it from bending
 
Yep,

Dad is right. I wouldn't even attempt to run a boat without a third channel.. trust me it is one of the most valuable things on a boat.. sometimes can be your worst enemy, but overall very well worth it.

chris
 
Paul, you've a pair or more of the best hydro racers in the country helpin you, listen to what they say...... by the pics, you look good, take your time, as, a building quirk now, will just cause headaches and failure in the future. Not an accomplished builder, I've assembled quite a few, do not use the wheel collar attachments for any rod, mounting the steering servo as close, or, short, to the rudder will alleviate the flex in the rod Steve was hinting on,( outrigger pull some serious G's and you must act accordingly) I mount my steering so the servo pushes into the turn also.... with the hole in the transom, predrilled, make the mount perpendicular to the servo to not allow stress on it, same with throttle/third..... which, if, you have 3rd channel capability, use it... you will realize the benefits during heat racing/testing... unless you enjoy rowing for stalled boats like I do/did It's very easy to set up and will pay dividends in the future..... build yourself a set up board for the boat, even one just for that hull if need be, so you can make adjustments after initial trim, and at least know where you're goin, or been.... Steve Chris and Ron all have super trick stuff, and know their boats like they were children........ Follow the directions to the minute degree, and dont fail to talk with Gary, he's the Hawk king......... ( his 21 boat was phenomenal last I saw it) Course, I was the guy asked him where his missing rear sponson was..... ( first race) hang tough, play it smart, you'll love it.... looking at entering my '40 boat in mendota also, we'll have some fun........ mike
 
".... sometimes can be your worst enemy"

Yes this can be true if one does not resist the temptation to keep leaning it out, seen this many times. But putting that aside, I consider third channel mixture control a must. When I go to a race I typically will run one boat in open water & that's usually after waiting for a lull in activity. I'll get the boat in the water , run 8-10 laps to see if I need to make any changes on the needle. At that point I'll bring it in knowing that if I went "a couple clicks" on that boat then I'll do the same on the others come race time. I've been to many races where open water is basically semi-controlled chaos & have seen more boats get tore up then as opposed to an entire weekend of racing so to me it minimizes that risk of running every boat to "find the needle". Also keep in mind how conditions change from day to day & sometimes during the course of a day so being able to "adjust on the fly" is paramount in my opinion. It's an option I would not want to do without and well worth the extra effort to install it. B)
 
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Thanks Ron, I was thinking my rudder was about 1" too long I will take some measurements and post some numbers for a more exact cut off point. I have been considering using some brass tubing for a sleeve on my push rod, where they pas thru the bulk head and the transom. The sleeve will stick out past both sides about a 1/4" and the sleeve will be a close to water tight fit. I then will use some boots on the outsides with the sleeves on the inside, does this sound good? I have heard of people using just the brass tubing as boots, but I am not sure that will be good enough for me ( Ive seen my .12 boat hit shore too many times from water getting in the box, I don't want to take chances). Please everyone can you post some pic or point me in the direction of some pics of how your push rods are exiting you radio box that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks ,

Paul

p.s. I want to have this boat ready for the water in less than 3 weeks, I hope to race it on August 18th.
Hey Paul,

Glad to here its coming along well. On your pushrods I have used antenna tubing and glued a short piece of small fuel tubing on one end and it act a a seal and keeps it water tight.

Zach
 
Thanks Everyone,

Ron is suppose to be sending me some pic's to my email, of his radio box to give me some ideas. I will be referencing this thread quite often to see if what is being said is what I am doing. I did look for hobby stuff seals and couldn't find them, I am probably gonna try using aeromarine again or maybe even GrimRacer seals. I am really considering setting all my electrics off the tub floor, I am making a raised deck that will be 3/8" off the tub floor. I now and rethinking my linkages I was planning on using 4-40 rod with heavy ball links on both end for all my connections (but that would mean I would need to use collars or braze them solid and then they couldn't be removed without a hassle). My radio box deck that I am considering will be two pieces of 1/8" 5ply that bolts to cross members via blind nuts so each side could be removed if needed. I was also going to use 1" angle 1/8" thick cut into 3/8" pieces for mounting servos and 2 4-40 screws holding the angle brackets to the deck ( I did notice if I use the brass inserts that come with the servos I will have to use 2-56 screws, 4-40 wont fit is this ok?). I will be using all machine screws on this boat, I really don't like wood screws I am afraid of them. If anyone else has some pics of there radio boxes that they would be willing to share with me for a reference that would be really great, I don't want to do this wrong because holes are easy to fix but they don't look so good for sure. Please send them to [email protected] .

Thanks again Everyone for all your Help / Information :)

Paul

This is what I am considering doing for a deck : http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...si&img=1100
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Everyone,
Ron is suppose to be sending me some pic's to my email, of his radio box to give me some ideas. I will be referencing this thread quite often to see if what is being said is what I am doing. I did look for hobby stuff seals and couldn't find them, I am probably gonna try using aeromarine again or maybe even GrimRacer seals. I am really considering setting all my electrics off the tub floor, I am making a raised deck that will be 3/8" off the tub floor. I now and rethinking my linkages I was planning on using 4-40 rod with heavy ball links on both end for all my connections (but that would mean I would need to use collars or braze them solid and then they couldn't be removed without a hassle). My radio box deck that I am considering will be two pieces of 1/8" 5ply that bolts to cross members via blind nuts so each side could be removed if needed. I was also going to use 1" angle 1/8" thick cut into 3/8" pieces for mounting servos and 2 4-40 screws holding the angle brackets to the deck ( I did notice if I use the brass inserts that come with the servos I will have to use 2-56 screws, 4-40 wont fit is this ok?). I will be using all machine screws on this boat, I really don't like wood screws I am afraid of them. If anyone else has some pics of there radio boxes that they would be willing to share with me for a reference that would be really great, I don't want to do this wrong because holes are easy to fix but they don't look so good for sure. Please send them to [email protected] .

Thanks again Everyone for all your Help / Information :)

stu barr has the remaining inventory of hobby stuyff seals

Paul

This is what I am considering doing for a deck : http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...si&img=1100
 
Thanks Everyone,
Ron is suppose to be sending me some pic's to my email, of his radio box to give me some ideas. I will be referencing this thread quite often to see if what is being said is what I am doing. I did look for hobby stuff seals and couldn't find them, I am probably gonna try using aeromarine again or maybe even GrimRacer seals. I am really considering setting all my electrics off the tub floor, I am making a raised deck that will be 3/8" off the tub floor. I now and rethinking my linkages I was planning on using 4-40 rod with heavy ball links on both end for all my connections (but that would mean I would need to use collars or braze them solid and then they couldn't be removed without a hassle). My radio box deck that I am considering will be two pieces of 1/8" 5ply that bolts to cross members via blind nuts so each side could be removed if needed. I was also going to use 1" angle 1/8" thick cut into 3/8" pieces for mounting servos and 2 4-40 screws holding the angle brackets to the deck ( I did notice if I use the brass inserts that come with the servos I will have to use 2-56 screws, 4-40 wont fit is this ok?). I will be using all machine screws on this boat, I really don't like wood screws I am afraid of them. If anyone else has some pics of there radio boxes that they would be willing to share with me for a reference that would be really great, I don't want to do this wrong because holes are easy to fix but they don't look so good for sure. Please send them to [email protected] .

Thanks again Everyone for all your Help / Information :)

stu barr has the remaining inventory of hobby stuyff seals

Paul

This is what I am considering doing for a deck : http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?automo...si&img=1100

we mount the servos with 1 inch carbon fiber angle epoxyed to the sides of the hull for throttle and mix. epoxy a piece of 1/8 ply to the bottom with 4-40 blind nuts imbeded in it for the rudder. the stuff you want to put in the bottom is just added weight. whats the collars for? use i piece 4-40 rods,solder on clevices on servo end, with ball links on threaded end at motor. simple and light.
 
the web site for the carbon angle can be had from 2 places

www.graphiteelegance.com

or

www.robot.com

chris

and check with stu barr about the hobby stuff seals
 
Paul,

If you want i can email you some pics of my radio box setup so you understand what dad was talking about.

let me know

chris
 
Please do send pics of your radio box, thanks :)

Like I said I am too the point now where I could make a mistake and drill a hole in the wrong spot or add too much weight, I would rather build it more to common standards / proven standards :)

Thanks Again,

Paul

Email - [email protected]
 
When I tried graphite elegance a few days ago, their site said they were on vacation until June. Maybe they meant June 2008......

I use 1/8" thick pultruded fiberglass angle for my mounts. THe side that is glued to the hull can be sanded to 1/16" thick for weight reduction. It is a little thicker for the #2 flangehead SHCS I use to mount the servos. Works great for me.
 
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I tried the graphite elegance they are on vacation still and I also tried the robot site, they just link you to robot stuff (couldn't find anything regarding angle. I am going to try and move forward with this build, going to get a third channel needle today I hope and the seals. I am sure the best way to go about building this boat would be with carbon fiber stuff, but I cant find it and I am pretty sure that David and Gary Preusse don't use CF in there radio boxes (I have been told they are the some of the best people to ask when it comes to the Hawk, I think they are some best to ask about boats in general)(I do really respect everyones ideas, Thank You you guys are some of the best builders/racers in the country). So I will try and make do with what I have and can easily get, I have been at a stand still too long I need to get the boat together so I can take it apart to to do the finishing work. Please if you have pictures I would really love to see them, I do save every picture I receive (I still have every picture of the .12 boats I received while I was building my .12)

Thanks Again Everyone for all your Help,

Paul
 
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