After Run Oil

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If you have silicone ramps in your engine you should use synthetic products as petroleum based oils eventually attacks the silicone.

So I've been told
 
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I mix Rislone and ATF, 50/50 for after run oil. I've been using it for years with and no problems with the plastic, silicone or other seals. The ATF is light enough to fit anywhere and the Rislone stays put. Lots of smoke when you first start up, but the fuel clears it out right away.

Al Hobbs
 
I flush the engines out with WD40, then feed in a little ATF while spinning the engine (with a blow plug.)
 
Joe,

I have used Rislone for 26 years and just recently added some Corrosion X

in with it. Engines look great after you take them apart for inspection.

Thanks,

Mark Sholund
 
I use outboard engine fogging oil lots of different brands available, I like CRC brand best.

I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil until about 15 years ago when John Equi showed me how to use that for locktite and it works.
 
Been using Corrosion-X as after run and in the cooling cap now for a few years...I'm really impressed on how well this product forms a barrier to keep the water from attacking the metals...."No more corrosion period".
 
JMO.....To TRULY flush your engine you need to run it on "after run fuel". I just don't believe that spinning it with a starter, regardless of what is sprayed/poured in it will get everywhere that actually running it will. Also, building heat removes moisture more effectively. Make up a batch (maybe a quart) of methanol with at least 30% oil. Use a pure synthetic or at least one with very little castor in it. I've been using Morgan Cool Power pink, it's 95% syn & 5% castor for 4 years with great results. Unfortunately it's no longer available, when mine is gone I'll switch to Cool Power green full syn. I have a separate tank with hoses & filter I fill, then disconnect the onboard lines & hook this tank up. Radio off, set the throttle to approx. 1/2 & fire it up, leaving the glow igniter on. I use my thumb to choke it dog azz rich & keep the rpm's down to a fast idle. I let it run like this for a couple minutes, pull the fuel line off & let it burn off any remaining fuel. After that I try to crank it a couple more times to remove as much burnable alcohol as possible. After that, piston at BDC, throttle wide open, glow plug out & any remaining methanol will evaporate due to the heat almost instantly; leaving PLENTY of oil to protect your engine. Let it cool & close/seal it up as you would normally do. Blow it out with fuel as usual next time you run. This procedure was shared with me by Chris Wittrig & Jimmy Johnson & has greatly increased the life of my engines (-; Takes no longer than "normal" after run procedures & is neater/cleaner, too. It also is better than spinning a cold engine with the starter against the pinch. Building heat relieves that strain on moving parts, another advantage!
 
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Ask 5 diferent mechanics and get 5 different awnsers, I have been using dextron or mercon atf for many years, and is inexpensive and safe for silicone ramps. Even during winter storage I add atf through the glow plug hole and spin over the engine.some of my engines are still running after 18 years of running. Rc90boat
 
I pull the eng out to clean. spray lectra motive in the eng and fill it up. Slosh it around and then put the air blow gun in the pug hole and run the eng with air.

This cleans every thing out .......leaves nothing in the eng at all................ then fill it with air tool oil and run it again with the air blow gun.

Every nook and cranny is cleaned and oiled barr none.............

Then I put the plug in and check the fit every time. Want to se how it will hold over TDC for how long.

We spend top dollar for this small eng so why not take the time to maintain it.
 

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