Teflon Pipe Coupler?

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BobBonahoom

BobBonahoom

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2009
Messages
532
I need some advice before I try this. Has anyone ever machined up a pipe coupler from virgin Teflon? I keep blowing holes in regular silicone couplers and have always thought Teflon might work well except that it cold flows and gets sloppy. Then I had the idea to make the coupler and wrap it with silicone rescue tape that is rated to over 500 F and bonds to itself, which would seal the Teflon in. The only thing I don't like so far is that the system is rigid and may not do well in vibration. Any thoughts?

The first pic is the Teflon coupler on my 101 Roadrunner. The second pic shows it after I wrapped it with rescue tape.

a.JPG

b.JPG
 
Forgot to mention that this only works once you have a pipe length your like and don't plan to change.
 
Jerry Crowther used to sell hard teflon couplers.

You can get it from McMaster Carr, look up PTFE

Heat it with a torch till it's almost clear, slip everything together and let it cool. No more blown couplers.

Be VERY careful while heating. do in well ventilated area,,, outside.
 
That is exactly where I got the PTFE tube I used. I did not know about heating it up until it is almost clear. Even machining Teflon is dangerous and you need a respirator. Any heat generated can release fluorocarbon gases that are vey toxic.
 
Bob have your tried Dick Tyndalls flex coupler, Work great, no blowouts.
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Thanks Ray. No I have not. I just bought some stuff from Zipp that is supposed to be good to over 500 F, but then decided to try the Teflon.
 
The trick I have found with the PTFE couplers is to use a thick wall and scuff up the surface of the pipe and header. I use .100 to .125" thick wall tubing from McMaster and some .040 safety wire as a zip tie on either end. Use some acetone or campfuel to clean the metal surfaces before slipping on the tube.

I would not cover the Teflon with a silicon wrap, this will allow it to heat up more and go into its plastic transition phase where it will further deform and likely slip.

DSCN6959.JPG

DSCN6071.JPG
 
This is a great help Tyler! I will use your process instead. I was worried about the heat also.
 
RaceMechaniX said:
The trick I have found with the PTFE couplers is to use a thick wall and scuff up the surface of the pipe and header. I use .100 to .125" thick wall tubing from McMaster and some .040 safety wire as a zip tie on either end. Use some acetone or campfuel to clean the metal surfaces before slipping on the tube.

I would not cover the Teflon with a silicon wrap, this will allow it to heat up more and go into its plastic transition phase where it will further deform and likely slip.
Click to expand...

I made a new one as you described except I added a couple of grooves for the lock wire to set in.

Coupler.JPG
 
BobBonahoom said:
I need some advice before I try this. Has anyone ever machined up a pipe coupler from virgin Teflon? I keep blowing holes in regular silicone couplers and have always thought Teflon might work well except that it cold flows and gets sloppy. Then I had the idea to make the coupler and wrap it with silicone rescue tape that is rated to over 500 F and bonds to itself, which would seal the Teflon in. The only thing I don't like so far is that the system is rigid and may not do well in vibration. Any thoughts?

The first pic is the Teflon coupler on my 101 Roadrunner. The second pic shows it after I wrapped it with rescue tape.
Click to expand...
Bob,

I have used only electrical grade teflon PTFE without any problems on the header, tuned pipe joints used for gas engines. I buy tubings & rods which are finish machined to size. The machined sleeves fit tightly & are sealed with hose clamps. Even with the gas engines heat at the header point, they will last indefinitely. The wall thickness of any machined sleeve in the middle is .1094". The sleeves are .0781" wall thickness in the clamping areas. I have also used the same material on nitro engines. The sleeves will become very flexible with the engines exhaust heat.

Jim Allen
 
Last edited by a moderator:
have been using them for over 25 years.they will last FOREVER! the only thing is they do not flex/give and if you get hit it can wreck the pipe/pipe mount,radio box cover, or rip the header off the boat.
 

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