Amsoil HP marine

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chinslip

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2005
Messages
145
Hi guys, I have a RCMK s27 that runs great with amsoil hp marine at roughly 20:1 ratio into Coleman fuel. However, I noticed that the back of the container says that it's made for 50:1 ratio. I would like your opinions on that please. On the weekend I took out my boat for the first time this year and used up a bit of old quicksilver that was leftover from before...same ratio. Then refuelled the second tank with amsoil and noticed noticeable difference in speed with the amsoil mix...it was slower with the amsoil. This was back to back fuel change without any carb readjustments. Just a fuel swap. I thinking of upping the ratio to 50:1 unless you more experienced guys tell me otherwise.

Thanks

Norm
 
Most synthetic two stroke premix oils are 50:1 or even 100:1.

Don't do that. The crank will burn up if you are making good power and rpm at those ratio's. Our small bore high rpm engines require more lube than other two strokes to have a good life.

It should be run at between 16:1 and 12.8:1 . 8 oz to 10 oz per gallon is most common ratio most are running.
 
I have been a Solid Amsoil user for ten years now but after some discussion why the bottom bearing explode on a very fine running engine at 10 oz/Gal no ethanol. the consensus brought me to the realization that more than 8 oz/gal was not needed and at the higher temperature of the engines the synthetic oil actually just slung itself off the bearing surfaces.. I don't know for sure but I only have one more gal of Amsoil fuel before I go back to Quicksilver oil it's a bunch cheaper!!!

Later!!

Pat
 
Amsoil Dominator is more suited for what we are putting these little engines through. I have been running it for years at 6.5 oz to a gallon without any failures. Those who know me know I don't baby my engines while on the race course but I do take care of them.
 
I have to agree with Wayne. Been running Amsoil Dominator for many years now with either pump gas, coleman fuel and now with VP SEF 94 fuel. Never, EVER, had a failure that was caused by a lack of lubrication. and those that know me will agree that my boats are no slouch, either.....
 
The simple answer to the performance question is, quicksilver is a better oil for performance. NOT saying it's better oil, slickerer, just that it burns better relating to performance. Mercury, Yamaha & OMC got together & spent A LOT of time & $ developing the TCW 3 spec oil. When unleaded gas became mandatory, all the ob manufacturers were having a large amount of engine failures due to pistons seizing. After testing & researching the failures, it was determined that the crap that has been added to pump gas to make unleaded gas was coking/burning & building up behind the piston rings, causing them to press out against the cylinder walls with enough force to cause enough heat to gall & seize cylinders. The OEM's designed TCW 3 oil to combat this issue & the performance loss from having to run unleaded fuel. I have run literally hundreds of gallons of 50:1 mix in every car I have owned in the last 20+ years. 24 gallons of 50:1 in the bass boat, I'm broke, need gas for the week, guess what I filled up with? Carbs, electronic feedback/O2 sensor carbs, efi (both t-body & port injected), OBD1 & OBD2, catalytic convertor or not. EVERY SINGLE ONE has gotten 2-3 mpg better mileage, idled smoother, started better, & had more power, with no check engine lights.ONLY difference was quicksilver 50:1, same base unleaded from the same station I fill the car up at. It's the oil (-; , they designed/spec'ed it to save their business - selling outboard motors & it works!
 
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I stopped running oil in all my 2 strokes , fuel cost per gallon came way down!
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Seriously , I've run Amsoil Dominator , Pennzoil Full syn and Amsoil Sabre HP Marine in Mercury V- 6 HP engines and the RC Zen engines and all three were excellent in terms of internal engine cleanliness , buildup of any carbon on piston domes and the lack of any build up in or below ring lands onto piston skirts . all the oils did a great job . Ratios were 32:1 for full size and 16 : 1 for the Zenoah engines . I have been using Regular Yamalube in a Yamaha 200 hp V-6 for over 2000 hours with great results also . My conclusion is to keep doing what I am doing as it is working great but others are getting the same results with other oils as well . Find one you are comfortable with and keep using it .
 
The simple answer to the performance question is, quicksilver is a better oil for performance. NOT saying it's better oil, slickerer, just that it burns better relating to performance. Mercury, Yamaha & OMC got together & spent A LOT of time & $ developing the TCW 3 spec oil. When unleaded gas became mandatory, all the ob manufacturers were having a large amount of engine failures due to pistons seizing. After testing & researching the failures, it was determined that the crap that has been added to pump gas to make unleaded gas was coking/burning & building up behind the piston rings, causing them to press out against the cylinder walls with enough force to cause enough heat to gall & seize cylinders. The OEM's designed TCW 3 oil to combat this issue & the performance loss from having to run unleaded fuel. I have run literally hundreds of gallons of 50:1 mix in every car I have owned in the last 20+ years. 24 gallons of 50:1 in the bass boat, I'm broke, need gas for the week, guess what I filled up with? Carbs, electronic feedback/O2 sensor carbs, efi (both t-body & port injected), OBD1 & OBD2, catalytic convertor or not. EVERY SINGLE ONE has gotten 2-3 mpg better mileage, idled smoother, started better, & had more power, with no check engine lights.ONLY difference was quicksilver 50:1, same base unleaded from the same station I fill the car up at. It's the oil (-; , they designed/spec'ed it to save their business - selling outboard motors & it works!
2nd

Yes, many testing hours and big $$$$$$$$$ OEM marine guys have the answer in they oil's.
 
The simple answer to the performance question is, quicksilver is a better oil for performance. NOT saying it's better oil, slickerer, just that it burns better relating to performance. Mercury, Yamaha & OMC got together & spent A LOT of time & $ developing the TCW 3 spec oil. When unleaded gas became mandatory, all the ob manufacturers were having a large amount of engine failures due to pistons seizing. After testing & researching the failures, it was determined that the crap that has been added to pump gas to make unleaded gas was coking/burning & building up behind the piston rings, causing them to press out against the cylinder walls with enough force to cause enough heat to gall & seize cylinders. The OEM's designed TCW 3 oil to combat this issue & the performance loss from having to run unleaded fuel. I have run literally hundreds of gallons of 50:1 mix in every car I have owned in the last 20+ years. 24 gallons of 50:1 in the bass boat, I'm broke, need gas for the week, guess what I filled up with? Carbs, electronic feedback/O2 sensor carbs, efi (both t-body & port injected), OBD1 & OBD2, catalytic convertor or not. EVERY SINGLE ONE has gotten 2-3 mpg better mileage, idled smoother, started better, & had more power, with no check engine lights.ONLY difference was quicksilver 50:1, same base unleaded from the same station I fill the car up at. It's the oil (-; , they designed/spec'ed it to save their business - selling outboard motors & it works!
you are running quicksilver in your full size cars? if so, what ratio?.
 
As mentioned in the post, I have run it in all my cars over the years. Not as a regular thing, though. If I had a tank full of gas (24 gal.) in my bass boat, & I knew I wasn't going fishing for an week or so - I would use it in my cars. The tank in the boat wasn't sealed, it was vented to the atmosphere so the gas would start to "go south" in short order. It was premix at 50:1. I WOULD NOT recommend it on a regular basis on any later model car with a catalytic convertor. The newer cars engines are also designed with as little "crevice space" that unburnt fuel can be trapped in. This is to boost fuel mileage, reduce emissions & deposits from this trapped, unburnt fuel. BUT, this design is more prone to be affected adversely by smaller amounts of deposits anywhere in the top end of engine. The catalytic convertor will also be prone to these same deposits. For those two reasons, prolonged use of premix two stroke fuel is prolly not in your best interest. Now in an old '66 pickup truck, go for it. If someone were to do this on a regular basis in an older vehicle, I would recommend a fuel system additive (STP or similar) on a regular basis to combat any carbon build up from the oil mix. I did it on an occasional basis, saw no downside, & did notice the benefits mentioned in my previous post. I will qualify one statement in that post.....I only had 1 vehicle that saw the 2-4 mpg increase, all others were 1 maybe 2 mpg. My little 88 Mitsubishi 4wd plow truck is the mpg king, it LOVES 50:1 quicksilver!!
 
Hi,just bought a gas hydro.ran almost a gal.of amsoil thru it.was reading this forum and it had mentioned quicksilver 2 stroke synthetic oil is a good oil to use.I also seen amsoil hp..a little more $$..would this oil good or should I take it back for and oil hp,thanks..oh mix it about 8oz.
 
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