Tunnelstuff in Norway

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Joern Markset

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Oct 25, 2004
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Went out to do some tweeks on my OS today. Had to modify the headbutton as it allows no tighter squish than 0,8 mm (0,32") tried with 0,28 mm who gave much better torque, but I had to open up to 0,33 mm to get some more revs. Also had a pipe extender made to get more bottom torque
Next up will be the Nova Rossi, lets see if there is some power in this little bugger

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Like the idea with the throttle servo.
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Very cool setup.
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Like the idea with the throttle servo.
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Very cool setup.
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Thanks
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I was tired of the stiff cables...

However it has not been 100% since I have broken 2 servos now because of water inside. I`m considering a claim to Savox as they are IP67 rated
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Now I open the new servos and fill them up with white grease before I mount them.
 
You have a lot of faith in how "water proof" servos are. Below is a picture of a "water resistant" servo after a radio box flooded when the boat was submerged. There are some very stiff push rod seals like the o-ring seal pictured below.

Lohring Miller

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There is no such thing as waterproof servo, water resistant yes but like Lohring said take a look what happens, the boat might be upside down for a while and get water in the servo.
 
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I'm totally following you Have allways put a lot of effort in building proper radioboxes.

The servos are clearly marked with IP67, and we all know what that means, so I wanted to give it a try

The steeringservo has been ok for 3 years now, I don't mind replace a servo after 3 years duty
 
Very intersted to hear how Rody's OS outboard engine performs once dialed in. I know in the RC car world the OS engines are higly regarded for there performance and quality over other brands, the reason why they are the most popular I guess. Rody has his pricing right on point as well.

Keep us posted
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I bought a new OPS 21 DAC some time ago, and this weekend it was tested.

Headbutton has too big volume for 25% nitro, and I`m not sure if the ports are ideal for my kind of use.

Will not spend more time on this as I have a bunch of other powerheads to try out.

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The OS VS PTO is running quite nice now. If I let it go on an oval track it screams like the devil itself.
However our triangle course demands loads of power to pull the boat around the buoys and get up flying again.

I had pipe extenders made, and that helps me a lot. Also tried to squish harder, but it has its limitation on 25% nitro, so 0,30 mm is ok.
I`ve ordered 4 or 5 new pipes just to try out if I can gain more torque on low rpm, and I ordered a new piston/sleeve that should have a few degrees lower exhaust timing. Not sure yet, but I hope that will do the trick.
Anyway it`s a really nice engine!! (It is on sale now, 305 euros) Link

While I`m waiting for new parts to arrive I fired up the new Nova Rossi Keep .21M

It`s quite similar to OS engine, except I did not need to modify the headbutton. Squish at 0,30 mm works fine on this as well.

I have replaced the aircooling head on all my engines with watercooling jacket, and run without any watercooling. Unfortunately I don`t get the needed heat, and that is a challenge as well, makes it difficult to find the correct settings. I found OS P3 to be the best option...

I had to reduce the propshaft to allow the use of Octura M435/3 that I found to be a **** nice prop for our drive style

And I did some mods to an X437/3 that had been in the war, reduced it by 3 mm, and it works good. Andy is making a bucket with new props as we speak, hopefully there will be some good stuff when they arrive.

BTW, the tunnel is a AN-660, Norwegian design by Andreas Nodland

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Great reading, thanks for the updates.

The B2101 piston and sleeve are from a short stroke engine, The VS is a long stroke, so parts compatibility and port timing may be an issue. Rody would be the man to check compatibility with. The XZ-GT piston/liner or possibly the XZB spec II if you want extra low exhaust timing might be an option.

If you need any measurements from a B2101 liner let me know.
 
Great reading, thanks for the updates.

The B2101 piston and sleeve are from a short stroke engine, The VS is a long stroke, so parts compatibility and port timing may be an issue. Rody would be the man to check compatibility with. The XZ-GT piston/liner or possibly the XZB spec II if you want extra low exhaust timing might be an option.

If you need any measurements from a B2101 liner let me know.
I might be wrong when I mentioned B2101, sorry if I`m wrong.

I buy all the parts from Rody, and it was his suggestion to try this one.
 
is your nova rossi ob water cooled , ? if air cooled , how do you prevent over heating....bob
It is freakin cold in Norway, it is almost impossible to get the correct temperature. That is why I took of the aircoolinghead and replaced it with watercooling jacket (without watercooling). Less heat disipate, but still can`t get it hot enough.
 
Here is another tunnel, it is a Noddcat designed by Kjell Gunnar Noddeland. It is without a doubt the most winning design in Norway for the last 25 years.
This one is an old boat that I converted to electric with reversible option. It is actually sold now, I just have to dial it in so the customer will get a "turn key" boat.
I allways recomend the OS 21 XM if they`r not experienced in glowengines

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Here`s another build that is almost ready for test. Hull is AN-790 (design by Andreas Nodland)

Plan was to try the Nova Rossi .46 on this one, and I think it might be possible to check out the .67 as well. Gonna need some extra weight in front cause the .67 is a lot more heavy than the .46
Planning for another bigger tunnel later that will have the .67

The AN-790 has been previously used as electric, running 6S and motor with a maximum power at 5kw. (continius power at 2,35kw)

Works pretty good even though the weight is quite high with electric setup.

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I have several big tunnels resting on the shelf as well, including this Synthar previously owned by Marc Huider. Plan was to build it electric, but have not come that far yet, maybe plans will change, who knows...
Gonna use the VP outboard on this one, hopefully one day it will fly high again.

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is your nova rossi ob water cooled , ? if air cooled , how do you prevent over heating....bob
It is freakin cold in Norway, it is almost impossible to get the correct temperature. That is why I took of the aircoolinghead and replaced it with watercooling jacket (without watercooling). Less heat disipate, but still can`t get it hot enough.
Have you tried a thin gasket/spacer between pto and low unit to slow down the heat transfer/dissipation?

Heat is certainly your friend! (Till a point of course)
 
You could pre-heat the water going to the head with a coil around the exhaust header. Another way is to wrap the exhaust pipe to keep heat in the pipe and returning pulses to the motor. Outboard pipes cool very quickly. (wind chill). I used to live in Minnesota so I understand cold weather, like just after the ice goes out and you've been waiting months to run a boat.

Mic
 
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