TS3 FE setup

nuzum · Dec 11, 2017

Guys,

Just purchased a TS3 for my son to convert to FE Spec/Limited. I have done a lot of searching but cant seem to find a solid build thread or ample setup information on this hull for FE application. There seems to be a lot for the TS2. Any help to push me in the right direction would be appreciated since i have zero experience with the TS3.

Thanks,

BobHorowitz · Dec 11, 2017

try searching on Offshore Electrics

Jerry Dunlap · Dec 11, 2017

I did an article on converting a TS 3 to FE. PM me your e-mail address and I can send the text.

JD

HTV Boats · Dec 12, 2017

I like a long open box so I can move things around and distribute weight.

Mic

nuzum · Dec 12, 2017

Hows it going Mic???

HTV Boats · Dec 13, 2017

Just getting older and most of my building now is for my son Jay and grandson Max.

Mic

LohringMiller · Dec 13, 2017

This is another electric conversion if you don't mind cutting into the tank hump. The box has two lids so you only need to untape the front one for charging.

Lohring Miller

nuzum · Dec 13, 2017

Very nice thanks for information.

HTV Boats · Dec 13, 2017

Don't be afraid to build the radio box back to and incorporate it with the transom which is a weak area and tends to crack at the seam deck and hull.

Mic

nuzum · Dec 13, 2017

10/4 !!!!

Buddy Benedict · Dec 13, 2017

Here is mine. I cut the bottom tray out and epoxied the complete box to the bottom of the boat and to the transom.

nuzum · Dec 13, 2017

Looks good Buddy !! Hows it running for you?

Grimracer · Dec 13, 2017

Buddy.. I am sure you know this and others will have other input.. BUT.. the yellow connectors on your setup will not hold up to your boat. At a minimum use Deans..

Truth is 5.5s don't preform any better then deans and to tell the truth in testing they did worse. The lesson is in the copper and not the size or shape.

Deans.. don't heat shrink the solder joint, operate and enjoy!

Grim

Buddy Benedict · Dec 14, 2017

nuzum said:
Looks good Buddy !! Hows it running for you?

It hasn't hit the water yet. I just finished it.

Buddy Benedict · Dec 14, 2017

Grimracer said:
Buddy.. I am sure you know this and others will have other input.. BUT.. the yellow connectors on your setup will not hold up to your boat. At a minimum use Deans..

Truth is 5.5s don't preform any better then deans and to tell the truth in testing they did worse. The lesson is in the copper and not the size or shape.

Deans.. don't heat shrink the solder joint, operate and enjoy!

Grim

Thanks for the tip Mike. This is my first try at electric and i haven't even got to run it yet. I plan on building a Q tunnel also this winter with one of the Aerotech's i just got.

Grimracer · Dec 14, 2017

Bud.. I am interjecting BUT please race the boats and form your own opinion.

Electric boat racing is NOT for me.. be it tunnel or other. (And I have a wicked fast Raptor).

I miss the 2:30 WAY to much in FE to race E power system. The mill is also missing and so for those reasons (A few others too) I back away. Time in the 6 laps is not the same eather. I have had a stopped boat just pull out in front of me and WACK!.. nothing I could do.

Just be ready for what you THINK is correct or normal to change significantly. Clean up is a breeze but.. well.. that's about it!

Then.. there might plenty of people that might not want a 2:30 or mill time. But.. I have found not many of them.

RACE THE BOATS and just approach each heat with an open mind. (Its to late for me..lol)

I must say..The power is intoxicating!

Grim

Kris Flynn · Dec 14, 2017

Grimracer said:
Bud.. I am interjecting BUT please race the boats and form your own opinion.

Electric boat racing is NOT for me.. be it tunnel or other. (And I have a wicked fast Raptor).

I miss the 2:30 WAY to much in FE to race E power system. The mill is also missing and so for those reasons (A few others too) I back away. Time in the 6 laps is not the same eather. I have had a stopped boat just pull out in front of me and WACK!.. nothing I could do.

Just be ready for what you THINK is correct or normal to change significantly. Clean up is a breeze but.. well.. that's about it!

Then.. there might plenty of people that might not want a 2:30 or mill time. But.. I have found not many of them.

RACE THE BOATS and just approach each heat with an open mind. (Its to late for me..lol)

I must say..The power is intoxicating!

Grim

Hey Grim,

Are you referring to the fact that there is no mill time, therefor 'half' (if not more!) of the actual race is actually already over before it actually starts (if so, it makes sense to me). If FE in Aus, the one who takes off from the bank (we have 30 seconds of 'mill time') and gets to the start first/slowest in lane 1 basically has it to lose. So if you don't leave the bank until say 15 seconds till start, you are basically stuffed...no 'milling' to 'play' with your fellow racers before the start haha

Not saying this is bad, but I love the way you have thought about it and I agree.

Darin Jordan · Dec 15, 2017

Buddy,

I respect Mike more than he probably knows, but just as a point of reference, if you are using quality 5.5mm contacts, on a P-LTD setup, you're going to be just fine.

It's all I use, and I haven't had any issues with voltage loss or heat or extra resistance. The system is going to pull around 90-100A on average, with peaks up to the "burn-up" point around 130A, so you will likely not see the kind of amp-draw that warrants 6.5mm or larger. If you WANT to go that route, go for it. I'm all about over-kill when it comes to this stuff, I'm just saying it's not necessary to perform well... very well even.

BUT, I do use quality ones. They might all look the same, but they aren't all made of the same materials. The ones you can get from www.offshoreelectrics.com seem to be high-quality.

Grimracer · Dec 15, 2017

Darin brings up a good point. (and thanks Darin)

Based on the pictures it was looking funkey is all. Bud will be alright.. he is a smart dude!

Larger is better for heat dissipation.. and if the connectors are yellow copper (like castle bullets) you are going to want some biggins!

We did a crap load of connector testing back in the day. Truth is a halfway plugged in Deans (we did test this at 100 amps) is better then most. The failure point on a connector is heat to the solder joint and a failed solder joint.. the resistance (not telling anybody anything new here) of the "unit" is the contributing factor. Lots of people equate resistance to fit or size and yes they play a part.. but again.. material make up was WAY more important then the others..

I am SO FAR FROM an expert here...lol.. just some fodder for those willing to read...

Grim

HTV Boats · Dec 15, 2017

Some good technical discussion here (keep it up) but I am going to address the 2 1/2 minutes in a fresh thread as not to hijack this one.

Mic

TS3 FE setup

Help Support Intlwaters:

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!