Phantom & Phantom II

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Hi Ken

A few pointers on lightning the Phantom. The Phantom due (in part) to all it's adjustments was a little heavy. One of the biggest reasons it came out heavy was the over use of epoxy by some builders. First off, use a body putty spreader to apply your epoxy. This will make it smooth and thin. Where foam is concerned, only coat the wood side. This will require that you get the wood firmly against the foam to dry. Foam can soak up loads of epoxy! When you coat interior parts with epoxy, thin it with 91% rubbing alcohol. Do not use 70% alcohol as the other 30% is water and will leave your epoxy soft, sticky and it will never completely cure. Never apply epoxy on high humidity days, it goes stupid! Also, build the rear sponsons without the interior doublers, blind mounting nuts, etc. After completing both rear sponsons, just glue them onto the hull in the position shown on the plans. They will not be adjustable but I never found the need to adjust them anyway. You can drill lightening holes in any of the doublers, mounting blocks, etc. to save weight.

Something I used to do was place all of the boat parts on a set of scales. Record the weight. After making all of my mods, I re-weighed them. This will give you an idea of how much weight you have saved. Doing this coupled with using epoxy very sparingly will give you a much lighter boat. Joe
 
Hello Joe

Was wondering your thoughts on longer adjustable boom mount

3/4 inches longer on the front sponsons an narrowing the front sponsons 3/4 inches that way its wider between the sponsons an tub, but no wider over all.Thats one thing I may adjust on this one im building.

Thxs

Ken
 
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Hello Joe

Was wondering your thoughts on longer adjustable boom mount

3/4 inches longer on the front sponsons an narrowing the front sponsons 3/4 inches that way its wider between the sponsons an tub, but no wider over all.Thats one thing I may adjust on this one im building.

Thxs

Ken
Hi Ken

Due to the latest trend to set the front sponsons wider, I think that would be a good idea. Narrowing the sponsons will help reduce extra drag caused by extending the sponson booms but will change the outside angle of the sponsons. I don't think this would hurt anything. The old saying, "for ever action there is a reaction". Later! Joe P.S. Thanks for starting this thread!
 
Joe

Should the strut stay in same location.Or should it mount on transome. If we go wider on the sponson will we need more lenght over all.Like you said The old saying, "for ever action there is a reaction". I'm thinking best to stay where it is.I may make the sturt adjustable to adjust to the rear more to be able to move prop back more if need.

Also thanks for the idea how to lighten it up some.I dont want to make to many changes to the look of the Phantom i dont want it to look like a few of the anorexic riggers of today lol.

Ken
 
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Joe

Should the strut stay in same location.Or should it mount on transome. If we go wider on the sponson will we need more lenght over all.Like you said The old saying, "for ever action there is a reaction". I'm thinking best to stay where it is.I may make the sturt adjustable to adjust to the rear more to be able to move prop back more if need.

Also thanks for the idea how to lighten it up some.I dont want to make to many changes to the look of the Phantom i dont want it to look like a few of the anorexic riggers of today lol.

Ken
Hi Ken

I designed the Phantom to have the prop under the hull and set at the angle shown on the plans. This is mostly to give lift to the rear of the boat. If you put the strut outboard of the transom, It may have some adverse affects. As for lengthening the boat (outboard strut), think about it. What you have accomplished by widening the sponsons and placing the strut further back is enlarging the boat and reducing the aerodynamic effect. With that said, I really don't think you will gain much other than having a larger boat. The only gain I can see is better rough water capabilities. Whether then or now, the Phantom is a pretty competitive design as is. Later! Joe
 
Joe

I have started the build Ill post pics as I go.

I have decide not to change the sponson width.If needed I'll widen booms later if needed. An keep the strut location stock.

For now Im looking at lighting by removing material were possible.I know the weight can be friendly if I keep the aerodynamic like you have designed.

Thank you for your advice.

Hows the drawings on the Phantom II coming

Ken
 
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Sponson taking some shape today!!

The plywood in this kit has held up nice after 40 years setting in a box!!
 
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Removing extra foam made easyer with heating up knife with propane torch cuts like butter.
 
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☺ now waiting on glue to Dry.

Joe

The motor mount how much did you trim away do you have any pictures of the the boat.you can post them here or send me an email. [email protected]

Ken
 
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Joe

I have started the build Ill post pics as I go.

I have decide not to change the sponson width.If needed I'll widen booms later if needed. An keep the strut location stock.

For now Im looking at lighting by removing material were possible.I know the weight can be friendly if I keep the aerodynamic like you have designed.

Thank you for your advice.

Hows the drawings on the Phantom II coming

Ken
I think you have made a wise choice! Back in the day, the only plans I had for changed to the boat was to lighten it. As for the Phantom II, I now have the basic shape on paper. Although it will have the look and feel of a 21 century boat, it will retain it's classic Phantom characteristics. I am going to take time out to do an isometric (3 dimensional) sketch of the boat and will post it so you guys can have a look. I am designing it to utilize the latest in CNC laser cutting techniques and light weight materials. Maybe you guys don't know this but I have always been a huge fan of Formula 1 cars. I originally designed the Phantom using aerodynamic principals of Formula 1. The Phantom II is no different as you will see in the sketch. Joe
 
☺ now waiting on glue to Dry.

Joe

The motor mount how much did you trim away do you have any pictures of the the boat.you can post them here or send me an email. [email protected]

Ken
Hi Ken

I have a few pictures that I can scan and post. As for the motor mount, I don't think I have any photos but I will check. I picked up my 90 Phantom today, from my son's house, and will also post some pictures of it. Joe
 
Joe

You said Im quoting from a different post "I have mulled over is the rudder. The rudder is necessary (on existing boat designs) to keep the boat straight and to make it turn. With that said, the rudder also causes the most parasitic drag of any part of the boat. I am working on a way to not eliminate the rudder but greatly decrease its parasitic effect. So anyway, this will be my considerations in designing the Phantom II."

I have thought about this ill send a pirvite message

What I came up with.

Ken
 
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Drawing of Phantom CE 40+ year old design
 
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Hi Guys

Someone said in one of the old posts, "I would love to see an adjustable hard shaft". Well here is one! This is a photo of the drive shaft on my Phantom CE. The carrier bearing in the photo is fully adjustable, side to side, up and down and any angle. I designed the carrier bearing to get rid of the stuffing box which caused a lot of drag on the drive line and ate up horsepower. It really worked well, my OPS .65 would scream down the straights. Joe
 
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Hey Guys

I have talked quite a bit about designing the Phantom II. Well, here is a first look. This is an isometric sketch of my thoughts as for what the Phantom II will look like. I am (as I have said before) a big fan of Formula 1 cars. They have always influenced my designs where it comes to aerodynamics. You will notice on the front and rear sponsons a set of vertical fins. Two on each front sponson and one on each rear sponson. These fins add greatly to straight line stability at speed. Also in the sketch you will notice a banana shape to the hull. This is not for looks but rather a combination of lift on the top of the hull and down force on the bottom of the hull. Aerodynamic lift is no good unless controlled by equal and opposite down force. The sign curve ( slight "S" shape) of the bottom of the hull creates negative lift (down force).

The materials, I use to build the boat, will be laser cut making it possible to add a lot of lightening holes and a very positive "egg crate construction". I will use lite-ply as well as birch 3 to 5 ply plywood. The engine cowling will be epoxy glass. Anyway, give me your thoughts. Thanks! Joe
 
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I see the styling your leaning toward maybe a spoiler connected across the hull down to sponsons also adjustable for lift.hulls that are longer can be narrower an still be stable.note F1 cars today are longer than years ago

Ken
 
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The motor placement seems forward. The present trend is more to the rear.

I like the overall concept. Doc
 
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