Engine, Gasket Material

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David Bryant

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
2,380
I'm curious what most folks use for fabricating gaskets?

I need crankcase gaskets for older engines (1980's Rossi R65/80 & Picco P67/80). Where is a good source for the proper size and type gasket paper material?

Thanks
 
.005 brass shim stock. If your gonna make um, make um last......
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Many of the modern high dollar, high performance OEM and after market engines are sealed with a product called Hylomar. It is made by Permatex. The part number is 85249.

When using, the mating surfaces are assembled metal-to-metal, using NO gasket only using Hylomar as a sealant.

The mating surfaces must be flat, clean and dry, then put a small amount on each surface, wait a minute then assemble. It sets up when the air is removed from the sealant.

I have used this sealant for many of my toy engines, also engines, transmissions and differentials at work and NEVER had a problem.

One added advantage is you do not have to make allowances for the gasket thickness when setting up an engine, as in setting the back-plate and rotor clearances.

Charles
 
you don't need any thing...............just put it together....................check the clearances and let it roll...............

You truly think that a perfect seal is needed???????????????????

Look at the front of the eng bearings thy have .001 more or less clearance as a seal.

It don't make a hill of beans if you use a gasket............................just check the clearances that you are losing with the gasket.
 
Thanks guys for the input. I will definitely look into Permatex Hylomar product.

I've noticed the (vintage) Rossi's especially vary in clearance (without any gaskets). Brand-new some had 2 gaskets on the rear-plate, with 1 gasket on the front plate. These are brand-new never-run engines. I test re-assembled one engine without any gaskets and the crankpin was making contact with the rotor disc/drum face, actually applying pressure (creating tension when rotating the crankshaft).
 
Get some 400 grit emery cloth and use some WD40. Put it on a piece of glass and have at it on the drum face.

When you get a .003 or so clearnce then go to 1000 grit. Then check the rod on the top to make sure it is not binding on the piston bosses.

If so do the same to the top of the rod.

Remember "It is only 3 moving parts don't over think it" Best quote I was ever told about are small engs.
 
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You always come on here and try to put everyone else down.

Well, I am **** tired of it.

Your description of your own workmanship explains why you have to run an engine size of 1 cubic inch or more just to try to keep up with the 21 size boats.

I have seen your "Machine Work"????? workmanship and it looks like it was done with a "HATCHET"

Keep up the good work, it makes everyone elses look very good, even the "Machete Man"

And David, do not try to match wits with me, you do not have the proper equipment.

Charles
 
This is for those of you that do not have a hatchet mentality and are interested in having a good running, long lasting engine.

Please take great care with your engine. It is a very very precise piece of equipment.

This mostly pertains to modern engines. On some of the older engines the manufacturing tolerances were not held nearly as close as they are today.

When you get a new engine, you can remove the back plate and clean the engine if you like but please do not attempt any modifications other than setting the head clearance. Regardless of what you have been told, their are only a very few people that are qualified to do ANY helpful modifications and this includes many of the so called "Engine Experts". Many, many engines have had their performance and driveability hurt by even small changes in the internal design of these engines.

Just do a patient engine break-in along with a good after-run maintenance program and a sensible mixture setting and you will be rewarded with a good running engine

The tolerances between a good running engine and a great running engine can be less than one ten thousandths of and inch difference.

Charles
 
This is for those of you that do not have a hatchet mentality and are interested in having a good running, long lasting engine.

Please take great care with your engine. It is a very very precise piece of equipment.

This mostly pertains to modern engines. On some of the older engines the manufacturing tolerances were not held nearly as close as they are today.

When you get a new engine, you can remove the back plate and clean the engine if you like but please do not attempt any modifications other than setting the head clearance. Regardless of what you have been told, their are only a very few people that are qualified to do ANY helpful modifications and this includes many of the so called "Engine Experts". Many, many engines have had their performance and driveability hurt by even small changes in the internal design of these engines.

Just do a patient engine break-in along with a good after-run maintenance program and a sensible mixture setting and you will be rewarded with a good running engine

The tolerances between a good running engine and a great running engine can be less than one ten thousandths of and inch difference.

Charles
Well said & written! High performance, "high quality", nitro type, AAC or ABC engines can only be built on very precise machines! Roundness amounts of .000050" for piston & cylinders as well as the ability to measure precisely cannot be done with standard measuring equipment!

Jim Allen
 
YA OK what every you all EXPERTS say...............................................

It is a toy boat eng...................................

It is post like this that scary many away from getting involved in RC boating making it seam like it is more involved than what it is.

Keep up the great work there guys and you will be the only one left running boats..........................

O that's right you don't any more......................LOL

Got a Twin running a pair of RS EVO .91 eng running in a race today in Brandon that I "HACKED" on.

Dam those eng sound good.........................smoking fast.......................Then again got to keep those Dremels away from the eng thy will not run after that...............LOL

Got a really HACKED UP eng going to the pond tomorrow..........It is a true bastard just like me........................

On of those glorified K&B .45's.............You know the Nelson rear ex, drum intake thing..............What a choked up piece that is.

Spent extract time with the Dremel "HACKING" on that turd......................... SACRALIGE I mean truly SACRALIGE........LOL

Hope the rod don't **** the bed..................................
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I will post a video of how it runs for ya.........
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ain't no BS here gust the facts..........................

Like I always said the BS stops when the prop hit the water.

You want to se some facts go over on Face book and watch the HACKED ON engs run LIVE in front of your eyes in a heat race..........

You know when you ruffle the feathers of the old guard then you get tagged.

Wonder why the hobby is in decline????????

THINK REAL HARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Here you go a eng with the gaskets removed...............Won't even tell you what kind a BASTER this eng is.

Don't want to blow your mind.

YA but its all BULL ****>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

WHAT EVER..........................

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i dont agree with all the arguing and personal detail flinging over a posters simple question ,but i have to dis-agree with the comment that engines dont NEED to be modified.

neil armstrong didnt NEED to go to the moon either.

personally ive watched model boating slow down since i "got tired" of the racing part of it. last race i was at had F heats packed with 90+mph hydros ,now i hear and see vids of twins begging for low 80's. quite laughable,but to each his own.i would never tell somebody not to try to better themselves and the game by trying to go faster. its a toy boat,u cant get hurt,if you can afford it ,go for it.

theres no such thing as FAST ENOUGH either when it comes to racing,it sounds dumb in that context and i wish people would stop saying it. it makes racing boring,esp for the spectator when he starts seeing the same 2 people win every event.

now for the gasket thing, my OPINION is if its not a clearance issue just use a piece of note paper,make sure its soaked with oil before installation (should b standard practice),, this is really needed for the heavy drum rotor because the housing will "try" to vibrate and distort and you will see when you take it back apart that there is black "goo" on the mated surfaces-evidence of movement/hi frequency oscillation . jm2¢
 
Mr. Shawn, I agree with you that fast is never fast enough. Everyone that is competitive has this in their nature. What I am saying is that many of the "Modifications" on our toy engines hurt more than they help. Much of it is the Monkey-see...Monkey-do type. My argument was it is better for someone that is not an TRUE expert to leave the mods alone, tune the boat, the pipe and prop and enjoy rather than try to fight a finicky engine all day at the lake. This is why we loose some of the boaters.

Mr Jack O'Donnell also runs the 60 size tether cars, he and his son Steve have almost identically prepared cars. What this does, it allows them to try many different engine combinations with almost instant feedback from the on track results. While this is not exactly the same as the boats, they also run the boats to test these things. Mr. Jim Wilson was also part of this as he would take the results of the good engine combinations and run them in his boats. He had 70 plus mile per hour 20 size heat racing monos and hydros and set over 20 records using a lot of this information.

The biggest things that they learned was that to achieve maximum performance of the engines was the ability to scavenge the exhaust from the cylinder and fill it back with the maximum amount of properly vaporized fuel/air mixture in the shortest amount of time. To do this the, tolerances in the timing, size fit and the finish of the parts that control this has to be very precise to balance the exhaust and filling of the cylinder. While this is all simple in theory, it was found that they had to use very precision machining equipment to not only do this work but they had to have very precise ways ways of measuring the results of these procedures to accomplish this consistently. It was not because of the fancy hack-and-whack procedures used by some today.

One of the other things needed for maximum performance was the fit, finish and compatibility of materials of the piston and sleeve. These are things that just cannot be accomplished consistently by hand with hand tools, it does not make any difference how good that you think that you are.

Some of the "Old Timers" learned to accomplish this sometimes but they were from a different generation that had learned to do most things for themselves, even then, the results were not always consistent. Unfortunately a lot of this ability has been lost with the passing of some of these boaters.

The ones that had this ability did not have to tell everyone just how great that they were. Their results would show this for them.

On the sealing of the engines, it is whatever each is familiar and comfortable with. I did not say that the Hylomar was the only way to accomplish this. It is just another option.

Charles
 
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