I have a question on the IMPBA / Namba rules about the strut being under the boat.. I don't get to really get to go to sanctioned races,.. I hope to but I don't see it any time soon.. Does putting the strut on the transom improve the performance that much? Is putting the strut through the bottom very difficult? I'm thinking I'll still mount to the transom but have the brackets on the inside, with a plate on the outside to make the bolts look a bit better..
Putting it on the transom helps keep water out more than anything else. As far as performance I look at it like stretching a motorcycle .It seems like it should make it less likely to blow over. I think the only classes that have to have thru bottom strut is the sport 40 class and scale class. Its a big debate. Id mount it to the transom on the outside and have one less place for water to get in. Water adds weight so nitro or fe I dont want it in there.That boat you have there is not going to blow over much if you have the cg set right so if you really want thru bottom strut youll still be straight handling and performance wise.
I mounted my brackets to the transom on my GP-400. That way if the IMPBA ever changes the sport 40 rules to transom mounted struts I just need to flip the brackets to the outside of the hull and fill the slot in the bottom of the boat.
Ant, think about one thing if nothing else, adjustability. I did my ss45 the way you guys propse with the brackets reverse mounted to the transom through the bottom but If I didnt have to why would I want to deal with breaking/regluing the silicone glue bond every time I want to adjust the strut? It would be easier if it was not mounted through the bottom of the hull. JMO
I worked about 2 hours tonight and got the tub mostly built. I am a bit concerned about fitting the engine and pipe in the engine bay. I think I may have to offset the engine a bit to the TF side to fit the engine and pipe in. Or should I run it the other way and offset to the opposite side to counter the torque lift on that sponson?
I think there is plenty of room to built the integral radio box in the front section,.. may actually be able to use the needle valve that comes on the NR carbs too.. That would be sweet and save a good bit of cash..
THis kit builds real fast guys. And it's really easy.. it's so flat there is a bit of suction when I pick it up from the table!!
Good lord, its a 5" engine bay...that is not enough! How do people fit them in whip 20's cause if i remember they are around 4.25"?? Show me some pics in case i need to mod the kit. Mike
Well not sure yet,.. but what your really looking at is 2.5 inches, from the center of the engine bay, to the outside edge of the tuned pipe. Now that is running the pipe dead horizontal. If we can rotate the pipe up a bit, it should be fine.. Trying to locate a .21 now and the build is going really fast..
I do know Rick Belinger fit his .21 in with no problems at all. You will just need to roll your header so it tucks where it needs to be. Get the motor first, then check more! Mike
Making progress here again.. Here is a pic of the saddle tanks I'll be using.. hopefully right on the CG,,
How about routing? Should flow fuel from the left side tank, to the TF side tank and to the carb,.. or the other way with the fuel blowing with the G forces between tanks, but against it back to the carb?