Waterproofing question

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Rick is right on the grease. Can go one step further and coat the electrical connections & plugs with liquid electrical tape. Brush it on and will harden up and seals the connections quite well. It remains flexible and can take some jolting around while running. The weakness is always with the connections. It is about $7 at Lowe's.
 
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Ray,

I run the servo wires into the radio box and make the connection in the radio box. I seal the wires to the radio box with silicone. On an extra long run from servo to radio box I use an airplane aileron extension wire at proper length and cut off the connectors on the extension and servo so I can solder them together and seal the connection with heat shrink tubing outside the radio box. Just another way to do it.
 
Ray,

I run the servo wires into the radio box and make the connection in the radio box. I seal the wires to the radio box with silicone. On an extra long run from servo to radio box I use an airplane aileron extension wire at proper length and cut off the connectors on the extension and servo so I can solder them together and seal the connection with heat shrink tubing outside the radio box. Just another way to do it.
I've done it that way John, but was not happy with not having the ability to check that shrink wrapped connection for corrosion. Also had to pull steering servo to service the radio box outside the boat. I'll use a aileron extension and unpin one end and reassemble inside radio box. Thanks all for the suggestions.
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Ray, if you don't like the idea of splicing the wires, you could do as John suggested but, instead of splicing the wires, solder them to the circuit board inside the servo in place of the wires from the factory. After that, you can cover the connections with a spray on waterproofer or whatever else you prefer
 
Ray,

I run the servo wires into the radio box and make the connection in the radio box. I seal the wires to the radio box with silicone. On an extra long run from servo to radio box I use an airplane aileron extension wire at proper length and cut off the connectors on the extension and servo so I can solder them together and seal the connection with heat shrink tubing outside the radio box. Just another way to do it.
I've done it that way John, but was not happy with not having the ability to check that shrink wrapped connection for corrosion. Also had to pull steering servo to service the radio box outside the boat. I'll use a aileron extension and unpin one end and reassemble inside radio box. Thanks all for the suggestions.
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Not familiar with Tatic, can you unpin the connector? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGNB
 
Ray,

I run the servo wires into the radio box and make the connection in the radio box. I seal the wires to the radio box with silicone. On an extra long run from servo to radio box I use an airplane aileron extension wire at proper length and cut off the connectors on the extension and servo so I can solder them together and seal the connection with heat shrink tubing outside the radio box. Just another way to do it.
John

Simone say's

Happy Thank's Giving!!!!!!!!!!!

BTW I still run my 40 mono of yours, with a cut down dia. prop, runs a little over 70, still a fun boat!!!!!

,oby
 
What did with my rudder servo on My 1/8 scale (before water proof servo ) was too buy a long servo extn put the put inside the water proof servo box run the lead from where you put The rudder servo to th radio box at the front of the boat.....back then we built our own radio boxes ..I know it's a lot of work but I haven't run for a few years and don't know how waterproof these really are
 
The problem is really the servo, not the connection, if there is a really waterproof servo, well I would like to know which one, it would be so much easier!
 
Here is a little tip on shrink wrap the connection. Put some silicone inside of the shrink wrap before you are heating it up. It will seal up perfectly and squeeze out all the extra. They make these splices for larger 120V circuit underground splicing. Used a few in my day as an electrician.
Mike
 
We use a "crimp" style splice in aviation all the time that has a shrink sleeve with sealant slid over the top. These things are supposed to be waterproof as well and, better still, you can see the splice through the sleeve. I'll see if I can get a brand name for them while I'm at work today
 
For this so inclined.. it would be prudent to read the specification for the "water proof" servos you chose to run. Some servo company's can also have a "blanket statement" about how there servos "might" perform using certain radio systems.


Grim
 
I found a couple of options that might work. Both are from Tyco Electronics.
The first is what is referred to as an "environmental splice". This thing is a crimp sleeve with a shrink sleeve with sealant that goes over the top. They come in small(18-22 guage), medium(14-16 guage) and large(10-12 guage) The part number for the medium is D-436-37 while the large is D-436-38
The other option would be a solder sleeve. This is a shrink sleeve that has sealant on each end and a dual solder ring in the middle. They also come an different sizes, the part number I have is 187788N002. We normally use shrink sleeves to attach a ground wire to a shield braid like you would find in a coax cable but they can be used for other things as well
 
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