hook on the bottom of the hull

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Steven Bryant

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2012
Messages
632
Hi guys

i'm after your opinions on hooks on the bottom of the hull, recently whilst talking to fellow racers most of them do not like to run hulls with a hook, however some boat builders are claimer that the hooks on there hulls are there on purpose as it makes there hulls more stably and faster.

What are your thoughts

Steve
 
Yep, some design with the hook in the hull. So, what happens over time and the resin changes as the heat of the day changes the hook? Myself, I will not run a hull with a permanent hook. How can it be faster? Its drag. The calcrafts are famous for having a hook out of the mold and they need to be straightened out and blueprinted. In my old Wardcraft days, some had hooks, others did not, but you kept an eye on it and filled with bondo and sanded till it was straight. Too many bad habits otherwise. Its easier to run a straight flat hull bottom and tune from there than one with a hook that does funny things down the straights or dives in the corners.
 
thanks Rob

Its interesting as i now of one so called builder/designer who swears blind that his hulls are some of the fastest gas mono's around and that they have a hook to make them more stable and faster, personelly i can not understand it myself as a hook sucks the boat onto the water causing it to run wet and slow.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i'm no rc mono expert, but i've run a gen2 speedmaster, a knudsen mono & a sd3 33" 'ducer - all .21's. i like the seaducer with the designed in hook the best. why it's there, no clue. all part of the "whole design", i guess. the boat is very stable, predictable, corners well with no fin or tabs & carries good speed. set up properly, according to jerry's instructions, it's not a "stuffer", either.
 
i'm no rc mono expert, but i've run a gen2 speedmaster, a knudsen mono & a sd3 33" 'ducer - all .21's. i like the seaducer with the designed in hook the best. why it's there, no clue. all part of the "whole design", i guess. the boat is very stable, predictable, corners well with no fin or tabs & carries good speed. set up properly, according to jerry's instructions, it's not a "stuffer", either
My very first Seaducer was a fleebay purchase I will always regret- the boat apparently sat on a stand in the heat to long and "changed the bottom"

No matter what , It would never free up and run fast, Since then I have run a few boats with all the crap hanging off the back and honestly imho -

The boat with the hook and not all the jewelry hanging on its azz is a better way to go, as long as its properly stored when not in use. I stand all mine on the nose against the wall with zero pressure on the bottom. The new version of Jerrys boat appears to have a higher transom dead rise- I would assume to help rid it of its only bad habit besides winning a TON of races ;)

Just my .02

Andy
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i'm no rc mono expert, but i've run a gen2 speedmaster, a knudsen mono & a sd3 33" 'ducer - all .21's. i like the seaducer with the designed in hook the best. why it's there, no clue. all part of the "whole design", i guess. the boat is very stable, predictable, corners well with no fin or tabs & carries good speed. set up properly, according to jerry's instructions, it's not a "stuffer", either
My very first Seaducer was a fleebay purchase I will always regret- the boat apparently sat on a stand in the heat to long and "changed the bottom"

No matter what , It would never free up and run fast, Since then I have run a few boats with all the crap hanging off the back and honestly imho -

The boat with the hook and not all the jewelry hanging on its azz is a better way to go, as long as its properly stored when not in use. I stand all mine on the nose against the wall with zero pressure on the bottom. The new version of Jerrys boat appears to have a higher transom dead rise- I would assume to help rid it of its only bad habit besides winning a TON of races ;)

Just my .02

Andy
my stand is foam with round pool noodles glued to it. the noodles sit just outside the strakes, running lengthwise to hold it level. the black close cell foam is used for packing high end aluminum wheels, just soft enough to conform to the hull without undue pressure. working good so far. not enough wall space along the floor for nose stands, have to use a rack on the wall for boat storage.
 
Funny Seaducer boats with Hook......... Hold a Lot of 2 lap and Saw Records in IMPBA..........
 
It is important to remember the scale speeds that our boats race at. What would normally slow a lifesize boat down, such as excessive hook, can make an RC boat work good. The 93 mph mono....that would be like a 40 foot Fountain going 600 mph. I promise you, if you don't change the bottom of that boat it ain't gonna stay in the water at 600mph! Big full length strakes and pad keels are used on big heavy full size boats to make them go faster but create way too much lift on RC monos.
 
It is important to remember the scale speeds that our boats race at. What would normally slow a lifesize boat down, such as excessive hook, can make an RC boat work good. The 93 mph mono....that would be like a 40 foot Fountain going 600 mph. I promise you, if you don't change the bottom of that boat it ain't gonna stay in the water at 600mph! Big full length strakes and pad keels are used on big heavy full size boats to make them go faster but create way too much lift on RC monos.
A 93 mph mono is 93 mph. it is all relative to power weight and prop. But the speed is the same..... :blink: Do you think it is easy for a single cyl piston engine with a piston width of .750 to push a boat... any size boat 93 actual mph? p.s. More Mono Hulls WITH HOOK hold resords........ than those WITHOUT!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It is important to remember the scale speeds that our boats race at. What would normally slow a lifesize boat down, such as excessive hook, can make an RC boat work good. The 93 mph mono....that would be like a 40 foot Fountain going 600 mph. I promise you, if you don't change the bottom of that boat it ain't gonna stay in the water at 600mph! Big full length strakes and pad keels are used on big heavy full size boats to make them go faster but create way too much lift on RC monos.
A 93 mph mono is 93 mph. it is all relative to power weight and prop. But the speed is the same..... :blink: Do you think it is easy for a single cyl piston engine with a piston width of .750 to push a boat... any size boat 93 actual mph? p.s. More Mono Hulls WITH HOOK hold resords........ than those WITHOUT!!
Good point!
 
Allison Boats has added a micro hook in the back of the pad on some models to make it just a tad less critical when riding on the extreme rear portion of the pad .

2vazebr.jpg
 
Hook in full size has been around for more years than most of us are ole. :D :D :D The fact of the matter is that Seaducer is the only Nitro Model builder that is attempting ( with in the rules, as they are) to bring the current ride surfaces of to us. We can only run the pads in Offshore................Maybe we need to move the Big Blocks to the Bigger boats so we can enjoy the Ride...........Surfaces???? :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The scale as well as the scale speed are not the same. Our little boats have huge differences in the power to weight and power to size ratio from full scale. These are the reasons that over the years there have been some serious flops with full scale boats being patterned after models....The canard Circus Circus and the lobster Winston Eagle to name a couple. The Ducer's are superb boats because of BOTH the deck and bottom shapes. As much money as there is in full scale offshore racing, if someone thought a 40 ft. Ducer would be unbeatable they would have built one already. I know what I know.

To stay on topic.....model monos with hooks work because the boat is designed around that feature from the start. Putting a hook in just any brand boat may not work well at all.
 
Well Now we are seeing hook it the trailing edges of Hydro sponsons!!!!!! :huh: :huh:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Note, It is the natural tendency of fiberglass to hook at the transom of a model boat as it cures. I know this because I was once a model boat manufacturer. Controlling the amount of hook is not easy. A little hook in the right place is less drag than trim tabs. I have held every single mono SAW record in IMPBA over the years and can tell you from experience trim tabs slow a boat as much as 8 mph when going for records, but a nice flat and true bottom can go even faster if you use the rudder and strut to adjust the ride without tabs or a hook.

Also, A pad is legal on a mono at the keel so long as it ends at the transom with no steps. A mono is defined as a boat that rides on a continuous wetted surface.

A center pad can work well on SAW boats but can make the boat track unevenly and skip out when cornering in the heat racing application. In SAW application it can be sanded in controlling the ride attitude of the boat much like a hook or trim tabs. I usually add a bunch of fiberglass cloth and resin inside the hull at the keel so that I can sand a pad into the hull when at the lake adjusting the ride of a SAW boat.
 
A center pad can work well on SAW boats I usually add a bunch of fiberglass cloth and resin inside the hull at the keel so that I can sand a pad into the hull when at the lake adjusting the ride of a SAW boat.
interesting. So a "pad" is typically a small lateral flat-spot perpendicular (or tangent) to the keel, starting a the transom, going forward a specific length? Approx. how wide typically?
 
Back
Top