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Engineering's been busy!


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#31 Michael Caruso

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 04:43 PM

 

Terry wins the... "High Tech Canadian Red-Neck" award...     Roy would be proud... ;) just kidding beautiful work AGAIN Terry.

 

 

Lol!  Here's what we'll be up to soon:  :lol:

 

 

Now that's funny........Terry nice machines BTW and great work. What is the use for the props being modified? 





#32 Terry Keeley

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Posted 26 October 2013 - 08:20 PM

What is the use for the props being modified? 

 

 

This (well it's big brother actually):

 

SAW_desktop-.jpg





#33 RaceMechaniX

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Posted 27 October 2013 - 12:11 PM

 

Yup, kinda nasty lookin. 

 

Hope this wind settles down, I wanna go run it!

 

 

 

Get yourself a ticket to E-City or Legg Lake Terry!  1 week and 2 weeks away.



#34 Terry Keeley

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 12:05 PM

She cleaned up nice:

 

DSCN2630.JPG

 

Unfortunately it threw a blade shortly after launch.  Thought the solder wudda flowed into the joint, oh well.

 

Next one I'm gonna tin both parts and leave a good fillet!  :)

 

DSCN2641.JPG



#35 dave roach

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 12:24 PM

Terry

Good luck on getting the blades to stay on BECU.

 

 

Dave



#36 Kris Flynn

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:12 PM

thats a shame Terry, after so much work!



#37 Terry Keeley

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:43 PM

Terry

Good luck on getting the blades to stay on BECU.

 

 

Dave

 

Oh ye of little faith!  :lol:

 

thats a shame Terry, after so much work!

 

"If you always do what you always did,

you'll always get what you always got." 

 

Just a little "tweeking", I'll get it!  :)



#38 John Beardslee

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 03:41 AM

Hi Terry,

 

Bummer!  You probably already know this but I'll add it anyway.  Your setup acts as great big heat sink and it may pull heat faster than you tought.  When you redo your brazing bring the heat up slow so the fixture comes up along with it.  When brazing the base metal will be cherry red or almost depending on what temp brazing rod you have.  Brazing rod flows to the hottest spot so you can sweat it in much like copper water joints only at a higher temp.  It is possible to also over heat the rod and have it oxidize leaving a weaker joint.  If it were me I'd consider building up a larger filet at the hub on both the front and back and leaving it there for added strength.  Another thought would be to contact a welder and see if they could TIG weld it.

 

Thanks,  John



#39 Chris Wood

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 05:39 AM

dumb question.. what about preheating the jig in a oven ahead of time and then filling the blade terry? like john was talking about..

any idea how ernie l used to do his?

 

chris



#40 Terry Keeley

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 07:57 AM

Hi Terry,

 

Bummer!  You probably already know this but I'll add it anyway.  Your setup acts as great big heat sink and it may pull heat faster than you tought.  When you redo your brazing bring the heat up slow so the fixture comes up along with it.  When brazing the base metal will be cherry red or almost depending on what temp brazing rod you have.  Brazing rod flows to the hottest spot so you can sweat it in much like copper water joints only at a higher temp.  It is possible to also over heat the rod and have it oxidize leaving a weaker joint.  If it were me I'd consider building up a larger filet at the hub on both the front and back and leaving it there for added strength.  Another thought would be to contact a welder and see if they could TIG weld it.

 

Thanks,  John

 

Thanks John, my toolmaker buddy said the same.  The braze flowed very well once I got the right temp, just didn't go right into the joint like I thought, tinning both parts will make sure it does!  Did my usual thinning job but will leave a fillet next time...

 

 

dumb question.. what about preheating the jig in a oven ahead of time and then filling the blade terry? like john was talking about..

any idea how ernie l used to do his?

 

chris

 

Sounds like a plan, the braze flows around 1100F, I'll put the whole thing in my kiln at 1000F for a couple hours then go at it.  :)

 

I'll get it, I'm just that stubborn!

 

Did Ernie Lafleur braze on props?



#41 Tim Kish

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:35 PM

Idealy you need a gap between the parts being soldered, preheating the fixture won't fix the problem you have.

The solder will only flow were it can and if the two pieces are tight together it will never find it's way between them.

Would be nice if your fixture allowed the blade to move away from the hub until solder is applied and then forced back against the hub mating the two parts with solder between them.

 

Tim



#42 MartyDavis

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:44 PM

Terry:

 

Dee Hughey used a MAP Gas torch with "Dial-a-Prop" rather than the propane for that reason.  He saw a great increase in the temp with the MAP Gas Torch.  You might try that.  Give Dee a call, he would be happy to help you.  Everything is the same with MAP vs Propane, just the cylinder is different.

 

Dee also used a carbon rod so that it didn't heat sink.  Maybe you could incorporate a carbon rod holder for the prop tips for the same reason.  I have built hundreds of Dial a Props and the carbon rod was one of the real secrets. 



#43 Ron Jefferson

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:48 PM

Would it be wise to grind an angle on the blades where they meet the hub? Just like welding, you would fill the gap with a filet of braze. Just a thought.

Ron

#44 coolhotrods

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:51 PM

Map gas is the way to go. I use it all brazing applications. Dustin



#45 Tim Kish

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:58 PM

Would it be wise to grind an angle on the blades where they meet the hub? Just like welding, you would fill the gap with a filet of braze. Just a thought.

Ron

Wouldn't hurt, the solder can only work if it gets between the parts being soldered and heat is crytical.

I have never used anything less than a good Oxy Acetaline torch at work and have solder just about every material I can think of.lol