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Engineering's been busy!


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#16 Terry Keeley

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 02:08 PM

Thanks guys, took a fair bit of cipherin' to come up with that.  

 

If you think about it a sec. the prop has to be located properly in all 3 axis', then rotated only about the horizontal, otherwise it'll be "off".

 

Going to silver braze the blades back on, apparently BeCu brazes very well.

 

Anxious to give some more LE pitch a try... :rolleyes:





#17 John Beardslee

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 02:18 PM

Hi Terry,

 

Nice setup.  Have you used aircraft counter bores?  They have a removerable/interchangeable pilot.  When used in your application the pilot helps track the cutter and might help take some of the cutting pressure off your fixture.  I finally got around to reading your tech briefs on BeCu really good up to date information!  Yes, BeCu brazes really well. 

 

John





#18 Terry Keeley

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 04:54 PM

Hi Terry,

 

Nice setup.  Have you used aircraft counter bores?  They have a removerable/interchangeable pilot.  When used in your application the pilot helps track the cutter and might help take some of the cutting pressure off your fixture.  I finally got around to reading your tech briefs on BeCu really good up to date information!  Yes, BeCu brazes really well. 

 

John

 

 

Thought about using/making a counterbore/holesaw type of tool to remove the original hub but thinking about it you have to leave some of the original material to match the new pitch angle.

 

Ain't as easy as it looks... :lol:



#19 Terry Keeley

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Posted 24 October 2013 - 10:50 PM

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#20 John Beardslee

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 04:08 AM

Hi Terry,

 

I hear you,  very difficult to hold props to work them.  Now you take the hub and bore away and it doesn't leave you much to hold tight and control.  Your set is about as good as I've seen.  I used to regrind the O.D. on the counterbores to get the size I needed.  When I did the 4 bladed props I used two 2 bladed props, I cut the hub halfway down from the top on one prop and halfway up from the drive dog side of the other and silver brazed them together.  I had overbored the I.D. and made a sleeve to keep them centered and a fixture to make sure they were indexed 90 degress apart.  Neat Stuff!!

 

Thanks,  John   



#21 rctinman

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 08:16 AM

Terry, you have WAYYYYY too much time on your hands!!!!!! LOL

Seriously though, this is really cool stuff!

 

Steve Ball



#22 Terry Keeley

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 08:36 AM

Hi Terry,

 

I hear you,  very difficult to hold props to work them.  Now you take the hub and bore away and it doesn't leave you much to hold tight and control.  Your set is about as good as I've seen.  I used to regrind the O.D. on the counterbores to get the size I needed.  When I did the 4 bladed props I used two 2 bladed props, I cut the hub halfway down from the top on one prop and halfway up from the drive dog side of the other and silver brazed them together.  I had overbored the I.D. and made a sleeve to keep them centered and a fixture to make sure they were indexed 90 degress apart.  Neat Stuff!!

 

Thanks,  John   

 

 

I've seen some of your 4 bladed props, nice work!

 

Thought I could hold the blades with just the 3 screws but glad I used the Cerro metal, they wouldda moved fur shur!  That BeCu is much tougher than I thought, even in an annealed state.

 

http://www.shop.bolt...CFYxAMgod0zcAnQ

 

How did the brazing hold up?  Did you use 45% Ag rod? 



#23 Terry Keeley

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 08:37 AM

Terry, you have WAYYYYY too much time on your hands!!!!!! LOL

Seriously though, this is really cool stuff!

 

Steve Ball

 

Lol!  Yup, I'm very lucky that way, and you know how I like to tinker...



#24 Tim Kish

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 10:15 AM

Sometimes I wish I had been a machinist. :D

 
 

Me too!

After thirty years in the industry I can confidently tell you a piece of paper does not make you a toolmaker .
Your ability to put thought to paper and then to final product is proof enough of your ability and skill .
Well done my friend .

#25 John Beardslee

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 01:25 PM

Hi Terry,

 

I used the silver solder Ed & Dee sold.  I still have some as well as many other grades.  If you ask Ed he'd probably tell you if it's 1/2 hard 3/4 hard or ??

The 4 blade props I did for Jim Babby were never supposed to be run,  I made him sign an affidavit to that effect but I think he did run them.  I just didn't want the liability and needed the protection.  I've heard some people running .101's have tried using the 2267's,  they are really thin at the hub and Tom wouldn't build them up.  To keep them from throwing blades people are building a fillet at the hub with silver solder, I've not seen them but it sounds feasable and I'd surely try it as well as heat treating them along with it.

 

Thanks,  John



#26 Terry Keeley

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 04:46 PM

Gonna take some cleaning up but I think I got a good bond.  

 

Oxy/acetylene worked better, plus got some ideas for the next one... :)

 

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#27 Randy Rapedius

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 05:04 PM

Excellent work Terry. If you want that cleaned up let me know. It's a long winter.



#28 Terry Keeley

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 05:54 PM

Excellent work Terry. If you want that cleaned up let me know. It's a long winter.

 

Yup, kinda nasty lookin. 

 

Hope this wind settles down, I wanna go run it!

 

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#29 stan simpson iv

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 06:56 PM

Terry wins the... "High Tech Canadian Red-Neck" award...     Roy would be proud... ;) just kidding beautiful work AGAIN Terry.



#30 Terry Keeley

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Posted 25 October 2013 - 09:16 PM

Terry wins the... "High Tech Canadian Red-Neck" award...     Roy would be proud... ;) just kidding beautiful work AGAIN Terry.

 

 

Lol!  Here's what we'll be up to soon:  :lol: